1st DIY Oil Change

I decided to document my first DIY engine oil/filter change on my 4Runner and give my first impressions.

Like most of you, I've been doing oil changes on my vehicles for decades.

Last August was my second and final free oil change at the dealership. I posted on other threads my frustration with the skid plate bolts that they stripped.

So it's been a year and I have put just barely 5000 miles on it. I don't have to commute anymore. Truck has just under 19k miles currently.

Tonight I removed the drain plug access plate from the rear skid, removed the forward skid plate and the lower plastic radiator shield.

At first I removed just the rear plastic plate bolts and tried to remove the forward skid. This didn't work for me because of the two skid plate hooks, so I completely removed the plastic shield, then the skid came off easily.

All of the bolts removed easily since I applied anti-seize last year when I was fixing the stripped bolt threads.

You could probably get by and access the filter housing by simply allowing the forward skid to hinge down, but I wanted to completely remove it so I could take a good look at things and clean.

With the exception of the plastic piece, the skid removal was very similar to my 97' Tacoma.

I should note that if you experience stripped forward skid plate holes, it's not the end of the world. The bolts actually attach to those two brackets that can be replaced rather than the frame. I was pleased to discover this.

I remembered that some of you have noticed rust under the foam strip between the radiator and the forward frame cross member. I lifted the foam and inspected the frame and it still looked like new. Another advantage of living in the desert.

I did a test fit of the filter wrench I bought at the dealership and it fit perfectly snug.

I washed off the skid plate and plastic piece and coated both sides with spray wax. Yes I know that sounds vain but I thought it would help keep dirt, water and debris from collecting.

Tomorrow I will do the actual oil/filter change. Hopefully that will go well.

I actually like the filter location compared to my Tacoma that had the 3400 V6. The Tacoma's filter was on the drivers side of the engine which required going through the wheel well which was a PITA and also messy.

 

Did you buy your Toyota oil at your local dealer or from an online source?

 

Nice! When I did mine, I just let the skid plate hinge down. Didn't have any issues with access, but mine is lifted on 285s.

 

I bought the oil, filter and wrench at my local dealership. I was already there getting the fuel pump recall done.

If I can buy a product locally, that is my preference over mail order unless there is an exorbitant price difference.

 

Good for you changing your own oil. Dealer is a huge waste of time IMO. I didn't even go there for my "free" Toyota care.

Oil change is a pretty easy DIY on a 5th gen 4Runner.

My time and sanity is far more valuable than a few "free" oil changes.

 

The filter removal went pretty well.

A couple of minor issues, first the plastic filter drain thingy didn't snap into the filter housing, so I had to hold it in place while the oil drained. This caused oil to run down my hand and arm which made a mess.

Second the filter housing was extremely tight, hard to loosen. Fortunately my new filter wrench stayed put, no issues with that. It requires a 24 mm socket which I had and a 1/2" drive breaker bar.

As I'm writing this post, I'm waiting on the oil to finish dripping from the filter housing before I actually remove it.

I'm not sure what the torque is for the housing?

So final thoughts on filter removal, not a big deal but more messy than I had hoped.

 

Atleast you were able to get the oil filter drain plug off. Mine was over torqued from the factory and the entire thing would spin so I had to take the whole unit off without draining it. Made a huge mess lol

 

Update, after removing and cleaning the filter housing, I tried the plastic nipple thing.

It takes quite a bit of force to insert. But it went in. Next time I'll know. One cool thing, when I removed the drain nozzle it automatically removed the small o-ring.

I separated the used filter pleats and found just a couple of small particles. I guess you could say the filter did its job.

Next step, reassemble the filter.

I have some pictures but this forum seems to have difficulty loading pictures.

Another forum I use, it's easy and quick.

 

Oil change is done.

Once I removed the filter housing and cleaned it up, I tried the drain nozzle again. I was able to insert it all the way, it snapped tightly into place. I obviously didn't push hard enough when I tried it the first time, my fault.

It took quite a bit of force to remove it. That's good but my only concern would be breaking off one of the tabs in the drain valve. Time will tell. I definitely would pull the nozzle straight out.

The torque spec for the filter housing is on the bottom, 25nm which is about 221 in/lbs. my torque wrench is in/lbs (airplane mechanic). The filter drain plug was about 8 ft/lbs or 100 in/lbs give it take.

I used the German torque for the main drain plug "good in tight" .

Overall the process was anti-climatic which is a good thing.

I actually liked the filter change other than the mess. It was nice to be able to inspect the filter pleats.

I also appreciated the large skid plate opening for the drain plug. My truck had a much smaller opening which was a hassle at times.

Adding the 0-20 oil was nice, the water like viscosity poured easily.

Reset the maintenance reminder per page 345 of the owners manual.

Tomorrow I will reinstall the skid plate and grease the u-joints.

Should be good to go.

 

I totally understand. My wife takes her Sequoia to the dealership. I could do it too, but it doesn't have near the ground clearance my 4Runner has.

 

Reinstalled front skid plate, oil drain access plate and plastic radiator guard.

I'm curious, those of you who have experienced rust under the foam strip, was your plastic piece installed?

When I was looking briefly at after market skids, it seemed like many of them eliminate that plastic piece which would leave the lower radiator and AC condenser exposed to rocks and water splashing. Just curious.

The center plastic push button thing I replaced with new. See pictures. I took the original one to the auto parts store and the closest match they had was for a Subaru. Go figure.

Honestly, I'd be tempted to not even bother with that plastic push fastener. I've never been able to remove them without damaging it. Maybe there's a special tool or I'm not holding my tongue just right.

Greased the slide yokes (moly) and U-joints (lithium). The forward drive shaft U-joint closest to the transfer case is a major PITA.

I wish there was a grease gun out there that would contain the oil in the grease during storage. The grease guns I bought worked very well, but the plastic bags I stored them in were completely saturated with oil.

I may just lube the forward drive shaft every couple of years since I don't use 4wd that often.

 

I just installed the cartrimhome fake TRD Pro skid plate and it did eliminate the plastic piece. However, someone here did modify the plastic piece to fit with the TRD skid plate installed. Used a dremel or comparable too. Ill look for what post as Im thinking about doing the same thing to avoid crap splashing up into that space.

EDIT - Hope the mods dont mind the link to the other forum - Note - this user didnt even trim the plastic piece, just installed the plastic piece and bolted the TRD plate right over the top of it.

 

Yes, I would prefer to keep the plastic piece too. It protects the lower radiator and AC condenser from road debris, e.g. Rocks.

Also, it looks like it protects the lower frame cross member from water/mud.

When I was briefly considering an aftermarket skid plate system, that was one of my turn offs/concerns, that most of the after skid plates eliminate this plastic guard and leave a gap there.

 

Slopemaster: Excellent write-up on the 5th gen oil change process! I'm out of dealer freebees and judging from some of the dealer horror stories I probably should have done my own from the beginning but, it was used when I got it so... I did look at an interesting YouTube video where it featured changing the OEM plastic filter container to an OEM aluminum unit. This makes sense to me but wanted to get feedback from any who have done this rather simple conversion? Here's the link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UtzAjag4hw

Again, great job on nailing the details for the DIY process!

 

I saw the RCI makes a filler plate, but I ultimately didnt go that direction.

 

Looking for confirmation my dealership is a a criminal organization with complete Fing idiots. Evans Toyota Ft Wayne IN

I go to parts counter and ask to purchase an oil filter wrench and filter. He says i dont think we have a wrench. Goes in back and comes back with a filter and says “we do not sell the wrench”
I said what do you mean. Like youre out of them or wont sell it to me? He says we dont sell it. I asked why? “Because it is a tool and we dont sell tools”.

i lose my shit in front of 7 folks in waiting room. So you mean to tell me you will sell me the filter that you brought out but wont sell me the tool required to remove and replace the filter? “Yeah thats right”
To which i reply that is the stupidest FUXKING thing i believe I have ever heard. Does that make any Damn sense to you? Blank stare, everyone looking…
Pause…. No it Fing does not. This is exactly why i didnt buy my vehicle here- it is full of idiots.

 

I bought my oil filter wrench from my dealership. It was around $25.

I used the tool a couple of weeks ago and it fit and worked perfectly.

My dealership doesn't have a perfect track record with me, but overall it's been pretty good.

 

In that video above, I see the guy is using the Kirkland branded 0-20w oil. Ill have to check that out.

 

That’s what Homey is gonna do - I’m just not a big fan of plastic engine parts…

 

Thanks friend,

I've considered the aluminum housing too, but at this stage my 18' is still young with low miles so I'm not overly concerned about the plastic one as far as heat fatigue.

Also knowing it's protected by the skid plate helps.

Not sure what the dealership charges for one. I am quite leery about buying critical parts off Amazon. To much potential for counterfeit parts.

Although I have purchased tennis shoes and hats online. Low risk venture.

 

That guy did a great job with the video but I think his filter wrench is not good. I'll bet that's how his filter housing got damaged.

He needs to get a filter wrench like mine.

 

Well anything is possible these days with counterfeit parts but they appear to be genuine Toyota parts. There are of course cheaper aluminum filter containers which are definitely made in China. I'm going ahead with the switch when the next oil change is due and I'll provide a brief report to this forum on what I think...

 

I didn't care for that tool either - I like the cap version better.

 

Definitely, it looked really cheesy. Like something you'd find at the dollar store.

The wrench I bought at the dealership fits like a glove. I have no concerns with it damaging the housing.

I don't normally get excited about a filter wrench but I've bought several aftermarket ones for my other vehicles and it's SO frustrating when they keep sliding off. I used to use valve grinding compound inside the tool just to give it enough traction to work.

 

I too did my first 5gen oil change today. Wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I did make the change to the metal filter housing and internal pipe . I kept the plastic one just incase...I'm a hoarder of sorts when it comes to auto parts. Every damn bolt was over torqued, the only easy off item was filter drain plug. That process was easy as well. I picked up 2' of vinyl tubing for the plug that snaps into base of filter cup, and no spillage at all. But I gotta tell ya.....this 4runner...$$. Oil, filter cartridge, air cleaner, cabin filter....most from WalMart..$83.00. I will change every 5,000miles regardless of what they say about synthetic oil....oil is oil and oil gets dirty regardless of conventional or synthetic. Dirty oil is a leading cause of engine wear. Overall, actually very easy if ya take your time and enjoy the process. Time for a brewski

 

The price we pay for the (preferred) toy of play…. Geez, I’m a poet & didn’t even know it

 

$12 FUN-DRIVING Oil Filter Wrench for Prius/Prius V/Corolla/Matrix,CT200h,iM/iQ/xD with 1.8 Litre

https://www.amazon.com/Fun-Driving-...t+Spin-On+Filters&qid=1631207706&sr=8-1-spons

Temporarily out of stock..

 

Yup - may be the logical result of the government paying people to stay home instead of having to "earn" a living....

 

In stock and includes a drain hose for the filter:

$20 A ABIGAIL Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota Lexus Scion 2.0L to 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter System Housings Fits Camry, RAV4, Highlander

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Engin...+Select+Spin-On+Filters&qid=1631209489&sr=8-8

 

That's a good setup and going into my cart!