Wescott or Eibach springs for TRD Pro? JBA UCA?

I bought a 2016 TRD Pro in January ‘20 that had 22,000 miles on it. I’ve added a LFD full roof rack, Baha ladder, and N-fab bars, but so far I’ve left the suspension stock. I now need some new tires and I’m thinking of going to 285’s which would require some lift. As I like the factory Pro ride, I’ve narrowed it down to the Wescott kit or Eibach springs for the Bilstein Pro’s that are due out this winter. Eibach has the spring kit for the 2019 and up Pro, but the Bilstein Pro spring kit is still in development. From what I’ve read online, I’ve yet to hear a bad comment about either kit by people who actually own them. My installer likes both kits and says the Wescott retains factory rake but the Eibach for the Fox is pretty much level, both seem to retain or improve the ride according to end users. He says it’s typically better to lift with springs, but he likes the rake of the Wescott. Decisions decisions. My gut says wait for the Eibach springs since they made the ones that are on my vehicle now and the lift ones will most likely retain the factory ride, but I need some rake, or at least think I do. I occasionally tow a 19.5’ boat and we load up the back during road trips. 98% of my driving is on roads although I use the term road loosely as the “roads” around the Chicago area often resemble 3rd world country quality; helps the immigrants feel at home and the locals happy about paying more taxes to improve them, which never happens…….I digress. I have no plans to add a RTT or heavy rear bumper. My tire plans are the SL rated Wildpeaks in 285 70/17 which are 51 pounds; if I were off-roading more I would go with the C rated, but they are a very heavy 64 pounds. I plan to use my Pro wheels.

For those with the Wescott and the Eibach spring kit for the Fox shocked Pro, do you still have some rake and how low does the rear drop if you are towing or have the back loaded up with a couple hundred pounds? Did you end up having to do UCA’s to align it properly? Did 285’s fit with no rubbing or BMC?

 

Have you thought of installing air bags in the rear for when towing to maintain rake? Tons of threads on 285’s on here. You may or may not rub, need a fender liner mod, need a BMC, or maybe UCA’s will be enough to dial in an alignment and avoid all that. There’s a couple people running 285’s on stock suspension with stock wheels. Fitting tires comes down to wheel fitment and alignment more so than the tire size and lift.

 

Get the Eibach's.

If rake is a concern, look into the air bag option that @Mtbpsych mentioned, or just add a 0.5" spacer to the rear coils. Should be a pretty minimal cost and will probably still cost less than the Wescott kit.

 

Airbags, I had not thought of that. I’ll have to look into it. I’ve been reading the 285 threads for several months and my eyes are now crossed. From what I can tell, most people with Wescotts get by with the stock UCA’s while some do and some don’t with the Eibach springs. Depends on vehicles, what wheels, and specific tires.

 

Thanks, I’ll look at those air bags. I suppose I could go with the Eibach springs and could likely add a .5” spacer at home if I wanted more rake later. Spacers seem easy to install on the rear.

Does anyone know how airbags ride when under load?

 

In your case, rubbing will be most related to your alignment specs.

We know you're going with the Pro wheel (+4 offset) and 285's.

As you lift the vehicle higher and higher, the caster spec on your alignment will not be able to reach the higher end of spec to keep your tire away from the mudflap or body mount.........so you could potentially rub in those areas. If that's the case, you have two options:

1) Get UCA's so that you can set the caster higher and push the tire forward (away from the mudflap and body mount).
2) Trim or remove the front mudflaps and do a body mount chop.

Option 1 is more expensive, but it has the added benefit of having better road manners.

 

A&P, I’m glad you mentioned “float”, that’s exactly what I want to avoid when towing. I’m not sure if a .5” spacer would even prevent that, or if I would be better of with an airbag. Probably an airbag.

Also, sounds like replacing the UCA’s will give me the ability to make adjustments that keep me from having to body chop. Might have to pick up some JBA STD UCA’s for about $450, they would likely give me that adjustability and I bet would not cost much of anything additional to install if I had it done when the lift was installed. They seem to be the most cost effective for a well respected product. Any real reason to spend $650+ on other brands?

 

JBA makes a good UCA, but consider getting the high caster version for maximum adjustability. Also, make sure that UCA will fit with your wheel offset (+4) and tire size.

 

I’ll take a look at it. +4 offset means a positive 4mm offset, correct? JBA’s website lists some wheel/tire size combo’s that work, but they don’t list what I plan.

TRD Pro 7” wheel, 285 70/17 SL Wildpeak A/T3W 32.8” tall, 11.3” wide. From reading about JBA’s the biggest problem with them is clearance issues. I’m not sure if this combo will work without rubbing the UCA.

Here is the info listed for the JBA HD UCA with KO2’s, which are very close in size. Does anyone know what the backspacing is on the Pro 7” wheel? I read too many different numbers online.

 

Backspacing on the Pro wheel is 4.5"

 

Well, looks like the chart from JBA indicates I will have rub problems as it suggests a backspacing of 4” or less. If I understand offset correctly, and I might have it backwards, I would need a .5” spacer to reduce my backspacing to 4”, which would probably increase my need for a BMC.

Do all aftermarket UCA’s have this same clearance problem? I guess my choices are a different wheel, wheel spacers, or maybe different UCA.

 

I'd just go with some different UCA's.

Try Dirt King. They have a good quality balljoint UCA that won't break the bank. I don't think they have the same clearance requirements JBA has.