Why is Puerto Rico able to use 15W-40?

Some folks have heard it all and have already made up their minds.

But lots of new owners of 4Runners are interested and concerned about this 20 weight oil controversy. Hence the continuing questions in this and other auto forums.

So to them the horse is still alive and kicking.

 

Just use viscosity that's on your oil cap. Like I said it's a dead horse

 

Or.......

Unwatch Thread ?

 

This is my new cap (12180-0H012).

If 5W30 is recommended for use in Puerto Rico and South Africa, then it's good enough to use in the Southern USA.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTIMJR0/

 

I ordered two. One for the GX and one for the 4runner haha

 

People really care about oil in an engine that isn’t really picky about oil.

 

0W8 is coming! At what point do you start using 0W0?

 

Haha no way! That’s insane.

 

Better stock up on Gun Oil and Sewing Machine Oil, that might come in handy soon.

 

Well, that’ll stop the oil change monkeys from messing up! Lol.

 

Good point Richard cranium

 

Ha nah there isn't going to be some qanon civil war

 

FU!

 

From Australia's Owners Manual.

Looks like 5W30 for Winter and 10W30 for Summer.

 

Well, that’s a new one for the 5W-30. This shows that these charts are really just an OEM recommendation. Not the capability of the motor oil itself.

 

Oil Change Update: 2021 Venture

Oil changed at 1000 miles (after break in) to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 with TRD Oil Filter.

Toyota Tech noted my 5W-30 Oil Cap had been swapped out in the service notes (busted).
Oil cost: $33 (6.6 Qts). TRD Filter $14.

I've used Mobil 1 since 1982, but made the switch to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (GF-6A), because it's made from pure natural gas, which has fewer impurities than traditional base oils made from crude. Shell now owns Pennzoil.

I immediately noticed that it's quieter when first starting up. No more ticking until it warms up.

 

VentureTRD, that's pretty cool that you take it a good shop for oil changes.

I'm of the opinion to just use what works for you. All the oil manufactured for the US market is sufficient for required changes and engine longevity except for one:

Amsoil!! I would not use it if it was given to me for free. In the 90's I had a really bad oil related failure twice with my Sea Doo using that oil. Both times it was fixed under warranty. After the second time a service bulletin was put out by Bombardier to notify customers not to use Amsoil.

I myself determined along with the tech that the oil injection oil was foaming up in the oil injector tank creating air bubbles. The large air bubble going into a carb starved the 2T of lubrication causing engine to seize. It was the first and last time I ever saw an injector oil do this. The first time we both thought it was the injector pump. Second time I shook up a half bottle of the oil and it foamed up like soap.

So for me no Scamsoil...

 

Brand of oil doesn't matter, 200k on my tacoma with whatever was cheapest.

 

Some on the forum have said the Toyota OEM oil contains more moly than most off the shelf oils. Presumably that means it was spec’d that way by Toyota’s engineers for a specific reason. If so, that would have me leaning towards using their oil instead of another brand. I totally get that all synthetic oils meeting manufacturer recommendations are good. But have been wondering about this.

Anyone have more info or opinions on this?

 

Haha! There’s a boatload of armchair chemists (self-styled “tribologists” lol) in all the auto forums who know more than every automotive engineer, and they’ll give you their opinions. Read on!

 

While that can be a true statement for you and others, it gets thrown out the window when you punch a hole in the pan or have a major overheat incident. This is when the high quality lubes shine.

I purchase all my lubricants and coolants based on worse case scenario. Only the very best synthetics, high temp brake fluid (Motul RBF 600/650 or 5.1), Water Wetter coolant additive, high quality marine grease, etc.

The only components that get conventional lubricants are my diffs and manual transmission. TrueTrac and NV3500's do not work well with synthetics.

 

I sold AMSOIL back in the early 80's, when synthetics were just coming on the market in Canada. It was a very hard sell, about $10/quart CDN back then and everyone said your engine seals will leak, etc, etc. Most of my customers had RX-7s.

I had a 1982 RX-7 and the synthetic oil was not recommended (yet) for rotary engines, but it kept the 4 spark plugs on the 2 rotors from fouling up and because the engine actually injected oil into the engine, so the synthetic oil burned much cleaner.

I also used Water Wetter and Red Line Grease.

 

200k miles so far no issues....lucky I guess

 

If you are not doing anything extreme it's no surprise at all. My thought process when I get behind the wheel is a little different than most. I think of the worst case scenario. I have a lot more saddle time on a dirt bike than 4 wheel rigs and have learned over the years that conventional oil is not going to cut it when I lose oil and have to ride 50 miles back to the truck.

 

A dirt bike engine works a lot harder than the GR ever will.

 

Yep!! I figure if I treat all my engines the same then I have no worries. Using quality lubricants and frequent maintenance is cheap insurance. Plus it's enjoyable and forces me to inspect my vehicle completely. I do maintenance well before manufacturers recommendation.

I do caution to not use synthetic diff fluid unless you are running an open diff. Limited slip and helical gears are less effective off highway with synthetics. As long as you change and service your diff/trans/transfer case fluid every few seasons or 30,000 miles then you are good. With coolant and brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles.

The new gen Toyotas are very picky in regards to transmission fluid and coolant. I recommend OEM for that application. For our older 20+ year old Lexus's, Max Life has proven to be very good. Drain and fill every oil change, filter and fluid every 2 years. Air filters, throttle body clean, and cabin air filters every other oil change. Fuel filters every 2 years.

All mine and my families 4 wheeled vehicles get typically over 300,000 - 400,000 miles plus with very little mechanical issues.

 

Except for my sister. She is the only person I know that drivers her vehicles until something breaks. And now she is driving a Ford Edge. What a darn nightmare of a vehicle!! A full day to change a alternator!! I still love her though.....

 

I only use synthetic in my vehicles, 10k intervals. Usually Walmart supertech unless there is another brand on sale.

 

I've also replaced my transmission fluid in my tacoma from Toyota as fluid to valvoline and my coolant to pentofrost. Done at 100k miles now at 200k and time to change them again.

 

I'll go 500k at least with my tacoma.