Oil change options

Hey, I don't have time to do my own full service. Coming up on my first 5000 mile oil and service and I live about an hour from the closest Toyota dealer. Where do you guys get your oil changed if you don't do it yourself but can't take it to the dealer?

 

My best buddies brother in law is a pro, old school mechanic. When my bud told him I tot a 4runner, the first thing he said was “those things are nice! ....I hate changing the oil on those things.”

Oil changes on the 4runner are not hard. It’s just that they are a time-suck for mechanics due to having to unbolt the two skidplates.

mechanics often get paid a set amount based on a set amount of time for various jobs. If they get paid 20 minutes for oil changes, and a 4runner rolls in that takes 30, the mechanics are on the losing end. That is where you get the rushing and crossthreaded bolts on heat shields.

So, you should probably find yourself a good independent that has a reputation for honesty, even if it means he wants a bit more money. Avoid the quicklube places.

 

Yes, avoid the quick lube places!

I'm at that point in life where I was planning on using the dealership for all my services. That was until they stripped several of my skid plate bolts on my second and final "free" oil change.

I spent two evenings and $20+ dollars at the auto parts store repairing the skid plate bolt holes. I had to oversize one hole due to the extensive thread damage.

I picked up some Toyota 0-20 oil and an filter element when I was at the dealership for the fuel pump replacement recall. So I will be doing my own oil/filter changes from now on.

Having said that, we've had good results with our dealerships actual mechanics, just not their quick lube technicians.

I realize my story doesn't directly answer your question, but bottom line is, be careful who you choose to work on your car, even for minor maintenance. I sound paranoid? Yes.

After watching several videos from the "The Car Care Nut" an actual Toyota dealership mechanic, I have decided to go with a 5000 mile oil change interval rather than the 10k interval on both my 4Runner and Sequoia. Not trying to open that debate, just stating my intent.

 

FYI, oil changes are every 10,000 miles or sooner depending on driving conditions.

 

Hmm.. Well the vehicle is annoying me at 4600 that my oil change is coming due.

 

Avoid the quicky lube places and especially the dealerships! Agree, find a good reliable indy shop if diy is not an option.

 

Yes, that's correct. Take a look in your maintenance guide. Under normal driving, it is recommended to check the vehicle over and rotate tires every 5000. Oil/filter changes every 10k. Unless operating under adverse conditions. I'm paraphrasing.

 

Here's one of the most critical lessons to learn if you want to drive your 4R a long, long time...

High performance, full-syn oil can last 15k miles depending on driving conditions, HOWEVER, oil filter technology is NOWHERE NEAR that! So, as the owner of a Toyota LandCriser w/350k miles (and still running strong) who has done every oil change myself since I bought her @34k miles do this:

Change oil (full syn, I like Mobile One 5qt @wallymart for cheap) on the 000's
Change filter (Toyota factory, always) on the 000's & the 5s

5k - filter
10k - filter & oil
15k - filter
20k - filter & oil
wash and repeat...

Your welcome!

 

Local trusted mechanic here. I learned my lesson with my 2013 Tacoma - used up all the ToyotaCare type visits, and would never do it again. The extra $ are worth it for peace of mind that someone who cares is doing my oil change.

I can do it myself, I just choose not to.

 

I see your reasoning. How do you change the filter without losing a lot of oil?

 

The volume of oil in the canister is only about 0.6 quarts as I recall. If just doing a filter by itself you would just top it up per the dipstick. I would have to check the service manual for the precise volume but I think that's in the ballpark.

 

Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.

 

I did 10K changes on my previous 4Runner due to a lot of highway driving and not much towing, etc. At 257K when I traded in for my Tacoma, it still ran like new.

I really don't think 5K filter changes are necessary (with some exceptions), and the results from people getting their oil analyzed seem to support that.

The exception would be folks who use their 4Runner in some of the circumstances where the manual recommends 5K changes. I fall into that category, so I change my oil and rotate the tires every 5K miles.

I guess my point is to go by what the manual says. If you look, many owners probably fall into the 5K oil change recommended category.

 

My take away from the car care nut is that if you're primarily driving highway, your probably fine with the 10k interval.

Stop and go city driving and extensive idling, he recommended 5k oil change interval. I chose to take him on his word considering he actually rebuilds and/or repairs Toyota engines.

I don't remember the year or engine model, I think mid 2000's/4cyl. but he talked about a Camary engine that was prone to oil consumption which he noted was more of a problem with cars that went with longer oil change intervals.

 

Just sayin. Not trying to start a debate or anythin...

 

We changed our oil at 5K and took the opportunity to install a Fumoto drain valve. 5K oil changes for us, even though the recommended interval is 10K, that gives you a chance to check vehicle over and grease the driveline too. Lots of reasons to follow the manual, but like it was said; oil is cheap compared to an engine.

 

Some of you guys will hate my routine. Every 3000 miles I do oil/filter changes, air filter, cabin air filter, rotate wheels, grab them and check for hub/tie rod/drag link/ball joint wear, drain and fill transmission, grease and lubricate chassis and all hinges/any moving part top to bottom, and silicone lube on all rubber door/window seals.

Bi annually I change diff fluids, service transmission, brake fluid/power steering/slave cylinder (manual transmission)/coolant flush, fuel filter, inspect engine and emission control systems, and put a wrench on every single chassis and steering component under the vehicle. At 4/32 tread I'm looking for a tire change. Brake pads when 10mm new are getting changed at 4-3mm.

Every fill up I check tire pressures and full visual inspection under the hood. I also grab steering shaft while under the hood and give it a few twists and push/pulls checking for unusual play.

Every day before it's driven I do a full walk around. Checking lug nuts for rust (indication of being loose), visual on tires/rims for cuts/bubbles/damage or low air, and check all lights and electrical. I also take a peak underneath to check for leaks. This serves as a double purpose so as not to run a child or animal over that might have crawled under my vehicle.

Stretching out maintenance intervals makes no sense to me. I only use the very best lubricants and fluids in my vehicles. Mobil 1 and Motul for pretty much everything except where noted by manufacturer to use specific OEM fluids.

Consequently I run my vehicles into the ground. I typically get 300,000 plus miles plus out of my gas vehicles. My moms Pulsar and Camry both had almost 400,000 miles on them when they were sold.

 

The Car Care Nut says change oil at 1K, then at 5K, then every 5K. Oil is cheap, engines are not. I plan on also using TRD Oil Filters.

I'm going to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 ($25/5 Quarts at Wallys).

For 4Runners in Puerto Rico, South Africa and Australia, Toyota recommends 5W-30, NOT 0W20.

To Quote Page 524 in your 4Runner's Owners Manual:

"The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be BETTER SUITED if the vehicle is operated at HIGH SPEEDS, or under EXTREME LOAD CONDITIONS."

 

You're right...I hate it.

 

Toyota recommends 5W-30?

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...us/wmi/recommendations/2021/76/1005/15928/0/0

 

Oh boy...

 

Anyone know of someone in Northern NJ, Bergen County that does maintenance.. let me know!

 

Jump to about 7:50 in this video and you will see an outstanding explanation on the trend of most current consumers who do not want to properly maintain their vehicle.

https://youtu.be/BuGDUwG4AFU

I fully admit with pride of my over maintaining. When myself, wife, mother, or anyone gets behind the wheel I want them to have a safe and reliable vehicle.

Fortunately Toyota, Yamaha, Honda, and other various Japanese vehicles can be beat to crap and poorly maintained with not too many ill effects as to the reliability. OTOH they all are mechanical and can fail.

 

Winter coats are strongly recommended in Alaska but not required in Hawaii.

Just saying

 

Lol. -50, demands a 0W-20 full synthetic oil (Alaska). +130 Death Valley 0W-20 full synthetic oil. Toyota states that 0W-20 is good for all climates. (

$53 0W-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W-20 oil provides the best lubrication under all temperature conditions, reduces engine combustion chamber deposits, reduces vehicle emissions, and improves fuel economy.) I know highly debatable.

I like to keep it simple; for more than 50 years, regardless of environmental temperatures I follow factory instructions on oil weight. What I do different I change oil & filter every 3/4K miles: been happy so far, no problems.

 

I agree,

If I was a psychology major I think the oil debate, 0-20 vs 5-30 would make a good case study.

 

Actually if you go by the manufacturers recommendation there is no debate. The 1GR-FE 3,956 cc motor calls for 6.55 quarts of either 5W30 or 0W20. The only reason the manufacturers are recommending 0W20 is to meet emission standards.

 

I believe that today's synthetic motor oils for daily driving conditions is not really a demanding application, regardless of driving in extreme low or high temperatures; no matter 0W-20 or 5W-30.

Looking at Mobil 1 synthetic oils, the differences between 0W-20 and 5W-30 are minimal in terms of typical inspection data. Here is a comparison of viscosity index, pour point, and flash point between the two.

Oil VI Pour Point (C) Flash Point (C)
0W-20 165 -57 232
5W-30 167 -45 224

So if you are going with a 30-weight oil because you live in harsh climates then you might want to reconsider.

Another interesting point, modern synthetic engine oils are not as prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown as Dino oils of yester-years. Just my 2C

 

The Car Care Nut likely owns a lot of stock in oil companies.

 

I own a lot of stock in oil companies and refineries, it does make filling up and changing oil less painful. I changed my oil at 1.5K and then every 5K or less and have gone through a 10 pack of Toyota filters with less than 40K miles.