1. Welcome to 4Runners.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all 4Runner discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other 4Runner owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Winch Install Tip

Discussion in 'General 4Runner Talk' started by Sandbuster, Jun 26, 2021.

  1. Jun 26, 2021 at 12:02 PM
    #1
    Sandbuster

    Sandbuster [OP] Breaking Wind

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2021
    Member:
    #19157
    Messages:
    696
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Central Florida
    Vehicle:
    2019 TRD Offroad
    Power Commander, LED lights upgrade, Eibach Pro Truck Series suspension upgrade (front & rear), Airbags (rear), dash integrated trailer brake control, Body Armor front bumper, Smittybilt 10K winch
    I recently installed a winch on my 4Runner and thought I'd pass along something I encountered. The winch is a Smittybilt - but the issue could be with any winch. A friend of mine was helping and since he's a pretty talented fella I really didn't pay much mind to when he tasked himself with attaching the ground wire to the controller. When I found that he left off a cable I just went ahead and attempted to remove the cable already in place - the retaining nut would not loosen and the reason was the stud was NOT previously checked to see if the bottom nut was tight (it was not tight so the stud just moved somewhat freely). I spent the better part of an hour trying to get the top nut off so I could remove the now twisted cable and properly tighten the base nut.

    All good now but all could have been avoided if we took a moment and checked all cable stud base nuts to make sure they were good & snug prior to putting on the cables - a mistake I won't make in the future..
     
    Moon Landing, SlvrSlug and dcwn.45 like this.
  2. Jun 26, 2021 at 12:09 PM
    #2
    wisard99

    wisard99 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2021
    Member:
    #21797
    Messages:
    9
    :bananadance::) Thanks!
     
  3. Jun 26, 2021 at 7:59 PM
    #3
    MeefZah

    MeefZah ------------

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2015
    Member:
    #1122
    Messages:
    2,821
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Lexington, Ohio
    Vehicle:
    GX460
    As long as we're throwing out random winch install tips, here's mine:

    Don't permanently wire the winch to power. Extend the bolt at the positive terminal of the battery and attach the winch power only as needed, using a wing nut. The reason for this is that there is no inline fuse and if the winch malfunctions or there's a short in the power cable you could possibly burn up your truck. Another option is to use an isolator or a switch, but the wing nut costs $1.

    [​IMG]
     
    A&P likes this.
  4. Jun 27, 2021 at 6:00 AM
    #4
    Sandbuster

    Sandbuster [OP] Breaking Wind

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2021
    Member:
    #19157
    Messages:
    696
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Central Florida
    Vehicle:
    2019 TRD Offroad
    Power Commander, LED lights upgrade, Eibach Pro Truck Series suspension upgrade (front & rear), Airbags (rear), dash integrated trailer brake control, Body Armor front bumper, Smittybilt 10K winch
    Great advice! Also, to add to that, I have found in the past that winches with wireless remotes draw a very small amount of constant current which typically is not an issue unless the vehicle is not run for several days. One could also employ a heavy duty “knife” switch at the battery connection. Here's an example:

    https://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-Veh...duty+knife+switch&qid=1624798707&sr=8-3-spons
     
  5. Jun 28, 2021 at 11:36 AM
    #5
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2019
    Member:
    #12402
    Messages:
    1,226
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Patrick
    OREGON
    Vehicle:
    1999 4Runner, bone stock
    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    Another possibility is to use the "marine terminals" on the battery. I recommend them highly. They have a screw post, similar to the one in the picture, but it's built in. You can screw everything down with a wing nut and take it off just as easily. They're all I use in my trucks.
    Heck, hardest part of changing to them is putting ring terminals on all the wires going to them. Not really that difficult. AND, when you put the ring terminals on you can use heatshrink, the meltwall kind, to seal them up well, and keep the battery acid mist out.

    Just my little note...
    Pat☺
     
    jmkulbeth likes this.
To Top