stuck in park 1998 4x4

I checked around and found that the common problem was a blown brake light fuse.I have brake lights,also that means the switch is good,unless there is two separate parts to this switch.I knew that someone must have had this problem before.I took the little cap off to allow it to come out of park,and that works fine,except I want it to work properly,thanks for the view and help in advance

 

Is there no one here who has any idea about this problem ?

 

I had that happen twice over the years in my wife's '98. I actually just pressed on the brake and firmly pushed the shifter forward and it freed it up.
Hope it's that simple for you, or you get it figured out. It has not happened to us again....good luck!

 

I really appreciate your help.I’ll try that,most things are lube,this is probably a solenoid that is activated and sucks back out of a hole every time you hit the brake which is how it locks it After I try I will post my solution.I have six of these all 97 or 98,only three that I drive,one 4x2 stick,4x2 automatic,and this one 4x4 automatic,I love them,thanks again

 

Yes, would like to know if you had any luck!

 

https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/toyota-4runner-stuck-in-park/

https://itstillruns.com/toyota-wont-come-out-park-7701061.html
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Moon landing,pushed the button it works fine,only not normal like it’s supposed to,the fuse is good,tonight I will try what double duty suggested,thanks for the help though

 

I tried that many times,wiggling,etc.next I think to take that cover off,got a feeling it’s a bad solenoid,thanks for all the ideas and help

 

You have probably already tried, however, while pressing the brake and pushing forward on the shifter, also turn the steering wheel counter clockwise to dis-engage the SW lock. Shifter won't move if it is in locked position.

 

finally got the truck back from A/C repair,98 4runner 4x4,Now I have taken the console apart,with help for instructions from youtube.I see the solenoid, it does not have a totally separate wire for it to unplug,the two wires that come out of it go to a plug with maybe six wires,so I stopped that.I peeled the outer covering off the two wires that come from the solenoid just to check colors and I am correct about the "going to a plug with six wires".Now just to check to see if its getting power I peeled one of the wires,checked with a 12volt tester,while pushing and nothing happened(no tester lite on)then I peeled the other one to test,while pushing brake,thats where they say the power comes from,and no light again.That means the solenoid may be good,I am going to put a supply wire with 12 volts to one of the wires to see if it works,bypassing the truck system.

 

supplied with the 12 volt to one of the wires and had a ground on the other one,it sparked when I touched with 12 volt,so I switched the ground to the other wire and touched the 12volt to the one the ground "was" attached to.I could feel the solenoid react,but only a slight movement,1/16" at the most,and it also felt very weak,so now it seems its the solenoid.The brake switch is good,I have brake lights,I just do not understand when I push the brakes no power comes in either on of the two wires going to the solenoid.I feel like removing solenoid,and that solves the problem,I'm gonna take a break I think its 100 here now,thanks for looking and responding.

 

You might want to check the fuses associated with that circuit, after getting that spark. EFI, STOP, and IGN. You might have blown one or more when you sparked the circuit.
2 possible methods for checking the fuses.
1) Best, and safest for your meter, pull the fuse out of it's socket, set your meter to the lowest ohms setting, and touch the leads to each of the fuses legs. The parts that go into the socket. You will see 0 ohms if the fuse is still good, infinity ohms, however your meter indicates that, if the fuse is bad. I know the fuses are clear so you can see the element, but don't rely on that. If you see the element is burnt open, fine, the fuse is definitely bad. But if it looks like the element is good, check it with the meter. They can be open, but not visibly so. Or, the other method:
2) PULL THE BATTERY LEADS off. Yes, both of them. It only takes a very small amount of current across the leads of the meter in ohms setting to blow that part of the meter. Put the meter lead tips onto the visible metal pieces on top of the fuse without removing the fuse from it's socket. Again, 0 ohms=good, infinity=bad.

There is a way to test for voltage, but I don't trust it. Set the meter to DC Volts, 20 volts scale. With the engine running, test both the little metal piece on top of each fuse to ground. IE: Put the negative meter lead on a good ground. There's one above the fuse block, pretty easy to get to, or any piece of bare, clean, metal on the body. Put the positive meter lead onto each of the fuses metal pieces. They should both have +12 VDC on them, roughly. Because you can see voltage on a fuse's lead from elsewhere in the circuit, though, I don't rely on this method.
After living in Yuma for 30 years, my lovely wife and I see 100° F as a nice cool evening. So get out there and fix that truck!

Have fun. Keep us up to date so it might help another in the future.
Pat☺

 

I did blow one 10amp fuse from where I was getting my 12 volts .If only two wires are going to solenoid is one hot and one ground? I believe it gets the ground from the metal base it’s in,it is mounted with that.I couldn’t get either to lite pushing brake.oh yeah I am not using ohms meter,just a check light