DIY 3.5" JL Audio dash speaker upgrade - Wow!

Thanks.

Did you take any photos of your installation?

 

just the one I posted. I was going to do a step by step photo but it was so quick and easy.

- take off cover and bolts (10mm)
- unplug wire harness plug in red wolf wire harness
- quick sound test to make sure they work
- quick adj. of mount with new speaker, align and screw back on
- put back dash speaker cover

 

That easy? Sounds like a simple job. I was reluctant to do this speaker change, even though I wanted better dash speakers, due to all the posts I've seen about cutting and reshaping the factory mounting bracket. So in this photo from an earlier post, which of the mounting bolts did you remove, the ones the speaker was mounted to the bracket with, or the phillips head ones that the bracket is mounted to the dash frame with (in red squares):


Are you saying the Infinity speakers will fit in the oem bracket, or do you remove that also? Sorry about all the questions - I'd really like to do this, and want to get it straight...

Edit: in looking at the photo you posted, it looks like you removed the oem speaker mounting bracket:

 

no worries ask away. I was in the same boat and I was asking a lot Q's in this current thread. they don't just drop in. So I personally loosen all 4 screw BUT the first two were the ones not in the "RED" square. Then I went ahead and took out the two bolts in the "RED" square. Then I removed unit and unplugged from OEM wire harness. Took out speaker. The OEM mounting bracket you have to modify. In thread someone fabricated their own which is nice but I don't have access to that nor as crafty. So I got creative what I did to the OEM mounting bracket (DIY) is the metal is easy to bend. I purposely bent in the middle back and forth to break in half. Yes, break in half. Then I adj. and modified it again it using needle nose pliers to where it looks like the ones in the photos on page one of thread. it fits good with new speaker. bolt back speaker to the NEW modified DIY bracket. but don't tighten all the way so that way when you put back in the dash you can get it aligned properly. Plug in new wire harness. then now screw the 2 bolts. then tighten all 4. put back cover. Sound crazy and tricky but it easy and works. hope this helps and makes sense!

picture i edited from a previous upload from this thread. with red lines is where i bent and broke off metal. now that I'm looking and typing this you can skip the breakage in the middle and just hold it and bend with pliers at the other two red lines.

 

Thanks for sharing this - I was going to get out the hack saw today, but I will give the old bend and break a go first!

 

I'm going to keep chewing on this bone until I think I know what I'm doing...this photo from a t4r.org thread shows how the poster trimmed his bracket, and how his speaker (different model # Infinity?) looked mounted, at least the driver's side. It seems to be similar to what you posted above, @j4runner:



The more information posted here, the better. It's going to make this process easier for someone down the road.

What I wish I could find is some used dash brackets, just to have something to practice on, or use to keep the oem brackets intact. Why I care, dunno...

From this thread:
https://trail4runner.com/2018/06/28/upgrading-the-4runners-dash-speakers/

More photos of the passenger side speaker bracket, for reference:


And some more trimming pics:

 

You should shave the bottom of the grill. The cone under the grill limits sound from the cone of the 3.5” speaker and focuses more on the tweeter. You’d be surprised at the sound difference when the grill is shaved.

 

The bottom of the dash speaker cover (grill)?

 

There was a comment in the T4R article where one guy said he went to Home Depot and picked up 3 Stanley thin metal plates with pre-existing holes and a few screws. He fashioned those together in the right configuration and made his own speaker bracket.

Just another potential option.

 

Thanks. I'll check out HD later today.

 

I'm with you on this mod.

I really want to do it too, but want to find a solution to the speaker bracket before I pull the trigger.

 

Yes. There’s a plastic funnel on the bottom of the dash speaker grill. It was designed to fit around the edge of the factory tweeter. Your new 3.5” speaker has a larger cone area than the stock tweeter did. Leaving that funnel in place on the bottom of the grill will end up basically sitting around the tweeter that’s part of the new 3.5” speaker. That limits the sound coming from the cone of the 3.5” speaker. Hope all that makes sense.

 

It does make sense. I have seen multiple posts regarding trimming off that ring, but all the posts I saw in reference to that were in order to make the cover fit and not hit the speaker below. It never occurred to me that it could affect the sound, so thanks for pointing that out.

 

It seems like modifying the stock bracket isn't all that big of a deal. The two brackets can be purchased from Toyota as

86161-35040 Left
86161-35030 Right

for about $8 each if ever needed again.

The biggest decision in all of this is whether you want a reasonable improvement (a lot say yes, some say MEH) over the stock tweeter that is completely plug-n-play, with no modifications, cutting, trimming, etc. with the Subaru Kicker Tweeter; R&R seems to be about 10 minute's work at the outside, and plugs in and mounts exactly like the oem tweeter.

Or, a better speaker overall with a 3.5" coaxial version, which is somewhat plug-n-play if you use the Red Wolf wiring harness, but modification of the stock mounting bracket is needed, or fabrication of a new mounting bracket. Also optional is trimming the speaker cover for either better fitment and/or optimizing the sound from your new 3.5"coaxial speaker.

That, and the fact that the set of Subi tweeters, while being much easier to install, is, however, twice the price.

Those who really care about every little audio nuance will undoubtedly go for the coaxial upgrade; the modifications are part of the fun.

Those like me, who think the stock system is actually fine, and wouldn't mind an upgrade for the least amount of work, are the ones on the fence.

 

Most people do modify it for figment. They don’t think about the sound aspect at all. I’ve been in the car audio world since around 1999 so I’ve learned a thing or two over the years.

 

I wouldn't mind trimming the cover, if there was a way to do it without it looking like a total hack job. Even though it doesn't show, I prefer modifications to look factory as much as possible. YMMV

 

I wonder if it can be sanded down with an orbital sander and a fine grit?

 

yup exactly what i did. great post, thanks for sharing..

 

Bingo. Cut it off as clean as you can and then sand it down smooth. You’ll never see it but I get what you mean. I’m the same way, I’ll know.

 

nice!!!

 

Ok so after getting the 6x9s installed and the capacitor installed in the 3.5" speaker Red Wolf harness.....it sounds good!

I am keeping the 3.5" speaker this is a good mod. I do suggest changing the 6x9 stockers with something to match the 3.5" though, makes a world of difference.

Just need to finish up a couple 6.5" speakers and sound deadening and am set for a little while.

 

good job man! i def agree with you on changing the 6x9..i just did the dash and they sound great i don’t know if it’s just me but i feel the dash 3.5 overtake the 6x9 right now haha.. def will be ordering the rest to replace stock..i’m convinced and is happy with the easy install..

 

Yes with the junk stock 6x9's in there the little 3.5's just completely take over the sound. When you do your 6x9's might want to pick up a few 1/2" or 5/8" screws, the Infinity pack of screws are way to long or you could just cut them to a shorter length.

 

thanks! got to go to lowe’s pick up some soil so i’ll grab the screws as well..

 

Best is a bolt with washers and a nylock nut. Doors open and close, lots of vibration, you don’t want anything coming loose on you.

 

The screws I mentioned connect the speaker to the metra adapter. (no fasteners/screws at all supplied from metra and Infiniti screws are loooooong) they would go all the way through the speaker, adapter and into the metal of the door.

The metra adapter aligns with the existing factory mounting points, so I used the existing bolts to secure the adapter to the door.

Also - the Road Kill and Killmat are very good stuff.

 

Hi, question for you. Did you use the included capacitor (bass blocker, I think) or just wire these up without using the RedWolf wire harnesses?

 

I did not. I just used the redwolf wire harness.

 

Thanks! Sounded good that way? Do you still have the stock 6x9 or did you replace that too? I just ordered the REF-3032CFX and the Infinity Reference 9632IX 6x9 and wasn't sure if I needed to add the capacitor or not.

 

You absolutely have to use the capacitors.