Need a new clutch

Hello 4Runner world I have a 93 4Runner and im in need of a new clutch does anyone have a brand that they trust or that could recommend?

 

https://www.carid.com/1993-toyota-4...mcleod-street-tuner-clutch-kit-119806514.html

 

Save yourself some time and go with a genuine Aisin Clutch Kit that originally came with it. Not sure what size engine you have but either way I’d only use that brand, cost a little more but worth it IMHO.

It fits right the first time.

 

Marlin Crawler pieces together the best clutch disks, pressure-plates and throw-out bearings from all of the aftermarket supplier options that are currently out there. I am fairly sure the AISIN brand pressure plate is what they use in this selection of parts that they piece together in their kits. The point behind this approach by Marlin Crawler is that you get the best holding strength for rock crawling with a manual R150F if your 3.0 L powered and double t-cased with reduction gearing. Also your clutch pedal doesn't become overly difficult to push down. I'm sure the 22R is catered for as well in these kits they put together. The other benefit is that you are getting the tried and true best solution from the Rock Crawling community that places a great demand on the clutch when scaling obstacles with a manual gear box.

Beyond the OEM style pressure plates you might consider a Center Force pressure plate which have centrifugal weights that fly out and produce additional clamping pressure on the disk as RPM is increased. I had one of these on my 82 long bed 4X4 back in the day and put on a 30 lb. flywheel on that 22R that I had in that truck. It has been awhile since that time and am unsure if Center Force is still in the business but might be worth a look to see if that technology is still offered. Failing that I'd stick with AISIN like it was suggested.

The condition of the flywheels surface were the clutch disk grips it will need to be carefully inspected once you have the transmission pulled and the pressure plate removed. The telltale signs of a PO abusing it and using the clutch as a torque converter will be discoloration and heat cracks in the steels surface if the clutch has been slipped in the vehicle and produced excessive heat repeatedly. Additionally, if the clutch disks material is so warn down that the rivets are exposed and have dug into the flywheel and/or the pressure plates clamping surfaces, then the flywheel may need to be resurfaced or replaced as well. If it is not super bad some light abrading with some Scotch-Brite may save the flywheel. But the pressure plate should be tossed as the heat can relax the metallurgy in the springs that load the disk against the flywheel and clamp everything together for power transmission.

Have you taken a look at your bracket up under the dash that facilitates the pivot point of your pedal as these have a reputation for cracking and causing you a problem as the pedal will not actuate the clutch master cylinder and therefore not disengage the engine from the transmission making gear selection impossible from dead starts and very notchy gear shifts once you are moving and warmed up. The tell tail indicator is that you are finding that while driving your having to drill the clutch pedal into the carpet to assure clean shifts and/or getting it into reverse is hard without grinding the synchromesh collars in the gear box.

 

I'm doing one on a '93 now....it's just a stock grocery getter. No need for the expense of the Marlin setup for him. I ordered stock Aisin from RA (Amazon was very close in price, too)

 

On the left (er, top) here is a new Aisin friction disc, right (uh, bottom) is an aftermarket Valeo that was in there.

If you compare closely lots of differences in the slotting of the friction material, spring count and center hub, just to name a few.

Now I'm not knowledgeable enough to say why, but I suspect the Aisin design is superior on most -- if not all -- counts

The Valeo kit appears to retail for $99 at RA while the Aisin is ~$131

 

D60,

Although the Valeo has six long and short coil springs in its design and the AISIN has only four longer ones, take a look at the detail surrounding the splined hub at the respective centers. The merit in a clutch disks design and application is how well it can transition from ungripped to gripped by the flywheel and pressure plates surfaces. That has a lot to do with material used in the disks construction but the secondary part is the disks physical compliance and its effective rotational spring rate. You will notice the AISIN has only 4 longer springs and a funny looking polymer plug surrounding the splined female hub for the transmissions input shaft. The Valeo doesn't have that. It just has two sets of three springs with different spring rates. I would bet the AISIN will have a better transition as the clutch pedal is released to engage the drive train.

The key is that very moment when the normal force that is provided by the pressure plate is loaded onto the disks friction material. There are two friction coefficients one is kinetic and one is static. They have appreciably different numerical values that one could determine if you do experiments and find out what they are. But aside from that, the kinetic friction coefficient will be the friction coefficient produced where slipping or skidding is happening and the surfaces are sliding on each other and getting hot. This kinetic friction coefficient is a lower number. This is where the clutch material gets worn away and the steel surfaces can be come discolored when the clutch is abused. Then as the clutch disk is squeezed by the flywheel and pressure plate, as you release the clutch pedal, the disk will stop skidding and the disk will rotate with the flywheel and pressure plate. At that very moment when that transition happens the friction coefficient becomes static and the numerical value is higher and you have 100% of the drive torque and horse power going to the transmission without any slipping. The disk at that instant was able to rotate internally and compress those coil springs which help the clutch stop slipping and fully engage and grip the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. Those springs and the hub polymer bushing in the AISIN are what will make that clutch last and last and endure many many many gear shifts and dead starts. So when AISIN designed that clutch disk they would have needed to determine those coefficients and the time required for a typical clutch engagement so that they could engineer the right amount of rotational compliance within the disk in order to affect this transition during engagement.

 

When I did my clutch, I bought the house brand that autozone sells. Wrenched everything back together and had no clutch, no reverse, no forward gears. Had to pull everything back out. Ordered the genuine Aisin kit from.....heck I can’t remember. I kept the autozone kit to compare with the Aisin before I returned it.

And dang it...CRS....maybe it was the pressure plate or throw out bearing was too short. Something wasn’t right. The Aisin kit was perfect, went right in and and has been perfect since, I’m expecting another 150,000 before I have to do it again.

The clutch that came out was an Aisin unit, I’m not sure if it was replaced before I got it but I suspect not as most everything I’ve replaced has been original to my 4Runner.

 

Don't mean to insult but I wonder if you had the friction disc in the right way?

The throwout bearing in the Aisin kit looked noticeably longer than the Valeo I removed, but I figured they're engineered to work with variances in the pressure plate.

The arm for the throwout bearing should still have a good bit of float (by hand) before the slave is installed, which would indicate the bearing isn't being mashed into the fingers of the pressure plate forcing it to disengage.

However if the "tall" side of the friction disc was put against the flywheel it might prevent the lining from ever touching the flywheel and you'd have no engagement

 

I once had a case separation in one of my browning 1919’s A6’s, several people that day couldn’t figure out why the rate of fire had slowed down compared to the new built sister. It continued to fire and spit out links through the day with several people guessing and giving they’re expert opinions.

I knew exactly what had happened. It wasn’t until I broke it down and removed 1/2 the shell that was lodged up in the chamber near the throat when everyone said.....would ya look at that !

Thank you, I’m once again humbled. You are forgiven .

 

Sorry for hijacking your thread galindojuan1,

This reminds me of the time in my Jensen Healey were I had just got my Toyota W58 transmission working and was anxious to run my kits 9lb flywheel and a pressure plate from a Toyota Corolla clutch kit. I managed to procure a somewhat custom clutch disk that had splines for the W-58 input shaft but the outside diameter of it had to fit the Corolla pressure plate and 9lb aluminum flywheel with its steel wear plate. The pressure plate was AISIN but was seeming to be a bit more grooved that one would have thought was correct for a new part, but I had to get this working, you know how it is! The clutch disk had these four ceramic pucks on the disk side because it was "high performance"! So I was commuting 30 miles to Yorba Linda in the car each day and was getting used to starting out on a hill with a very light flywheel. Those ruddy drum brakes and the cable operated parking mechanism was awful to do up hill starts with. But man the car was very aggressively quick in first and second gear and the response to the accelerator was really fun as the car would speed up and slow down like your foot was controlling a speed controller for a slot car. However, the uphill starts were not easy to master I can tell you that. About 3 months into this experiment I start the engine to go home and can't get it in gear. The clutch is cable operated so I think this will be a simple problem to solve. I start messing about and realize I cannot disengage the clutch and the cable is working just fine. But after enough thinking about what could be going wrong it finally pops free and releases when I try and start it in gear with the pedal depressed. Long story short the pucks on the disk facing side had completely worn away and as this occurred the outside of the clutch disk was not clearing the inside diameter of some of the AISIN's pressure plate internal features and was getting wedged together. What a pisser. So back on went the lightened cast iron OEM flywheel and the Tolleson disk and pressure plate. I had to get another disk that worked in a W58 conversion for a Triumph TR-6. Another lesson learned! Some days I really want to put that 9 pound flywheel back in the car, you know how it is!...

The very spot in Yorba Linda where the clutch failed to operate. I have since put Honda CRX disk brakes on the rear axle but that is another story. Cheers ATGP

 

Scrolling through the threads and replies I sense I'm not only a newbie on this site but also certainly not a DIYer!

Clutch went out on my '92 a few months ago (although at the time I thought it was transmission). My solution: tow truck to the Toyota dealership, paid said dealership to replace clutch. I have no idea what brand Toyota installs.

 

Dealer should install Aisin.

Nothing wrong with paying others to work on your vehicles if you don't have the time or desire. How you spend your time and money is up to you.