Security/FOB/Key questions - New-to-me 4Runner

Wassup yall, bought a 1999 4Runner Limited with 280k miles on it a couple weeks ago for $2k. I have a 1999 Tacoma PreRunner, so I've been having fun comparing differences as I go through restoring this thing.

One set of questions I'm unable to get definitive answers on relate to the security system.

This 4runner only came with 1 beaten up key, and it only unlocks the driver door. Everything has to be locked from the inside, and the rear hatch lock doesn't work at all. Today I started replacing all the actuators to get that issue out of the way. I have key FOBs on the way from Amazon, which I'm not even sure I can get to work at this point. I'm assuming the issue with the 3 locks has to do with the worn teeth on the key, but correct me if I'm wrong.

My main questions are:

- Is there supposed to be a way to automatically lock/unlock the rear hatch w/o using the key manually? If not, is there a kit to add it?
- How do I tell if I have a keyless entry system? I see several signs that imply I should (blinking security light, an OEM "protection package" sticker on the window), but I don't have a security box under the driver's seat like I do in my Tacoma.
- If I don't end up having keyless entry, what is the best way to add it? Cheap to add factory option? Seems stupid to have a the technology for a transponder key with no keyless entry.
- What reasons are there that my key might turn one direction in the lock but not the other, or not at all? (I drenched in silicone lube today, nothing changed)

Thanks in advance

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

You have a limited so you probably have a keyless system. You can try running through the procedure for programming a key and if the locks cycle like they do in the video then you can program a fob.

You can unlock the back tailgate using the unlock button found on the driver door, otherwise you will have to twist the key in tail gate lock and pull the lever on the tailgate at the same time to open it.

I don't know what you mean by security box, but its possible Toyota changed where it was.

Before you replace the locks try lubricating them with silicon lubricant, often times the locks get sticky and gritty feeling. Spraying them will sometimes make them run more smoothly, and if there are stuck wafers it could make the lock operational again. I had the same issue with the cylinder not turning in one direction, and this fixed most of it.

If the lock continues to feel gritty or doesn't work after doing this the lock is worn, and there isn't anything you can do to fix it. Though jiggling the key a little in the lock will sometimes be enough to make the lock work. Also make sure the key isn't too worn, because it will have similar symptoms to a worn lock cylinder.

 

Sounds good on the Limited aspect.

I swear I tried the button on the door and it didn't unlock the hatch, but I suppose I can try again. I couldn't find any sort of actuator replacement online, so I was leaning towards it not being automatic.

So I've now drenched the lock tumblers from all angles since I had access to them, and verified on the driver door and hatch locks that the visible pins all fall into place properly with both sides of the key, so unless there are also pins on the bottoms of the cylinders, I have no idea what the problem is. They're pretty smooth in the direction they do turn. I'll be trying to get some new keys cut in the next week and hope that fixes the problem.

 

The new key fobs took care of my issues after 5 or 6 attempts to program them

 

Welcome from Wisconsin! Imagine that key has been turned a few times in it's life.