Disable daytime running lights (DRL) on a 2000 SR5

I've seen the pix on Tacomaworld of which wire to remove from the harness connector. Since there is some differences between the years & models I didn't want to just try it. Is this the same as on a 2000 4R? Later on in that same thread, there was an idea of just pulling a wire from the heavy heatsink between the battery & fender under the hood. anyone have experience with either of these?

 

I got bored today after work & decided to give the 2nd option above a try because it was the easiest of the 2 options. I verified that what worked on the 2000 model year Tacoma with the 3.4L 5VZ-FE also works on the 4Runner with the 3.4L 5VZ-FE in it.

As described in the tacomaworld post, here is the caged heatsink & the grey connector:



Disconnect it & DRL is disabled without disabling anything else. The headlight/foglight controllers on the steering column work as you'd expect as well as the high-beam indicator. Hopefully lifetimeledlights.com will still honor their warranty, this was my 4th pair with the low beams fried.

 

When I installed my HIDs from retrofit...they stated I had to disable my DRL. Otherwise it would be very hard on the HID bulb...and could cause early failure. So, I did just as you did here...I too unplugged the connector. Piece of cake!! Now that you've disabled your DRL...I'm sure you'll quite eating LEDs.

Speaking of...other than going through 4 pairs of lights...how do you like the LEDS for headlights? Are they bright? At least as bright as our low beams (which isn't saying much)?? Anything you like or dislike about them?? Just wondering how they worked in real life? Thank you Sir

 

I did my research & as far as LED cubes or light bars I went with Rigid Industries Duallys. I had thought about HIDs at 1st, but the Duallys were $15 a pair cheaper & have 2.5 x the operational lifetime. For H4 headlights though, the research lasted another couple of years until by accident I found Lifetime LED Lights. The difference between their H4 lights & Sylvania Silverstar line is nothing short of shocking as I found out tonight. I sent back my DRL damaged H4 LEDs & I'm running my last pair of Silverstar zXe. LED gives me my own 300' slice of daylight. The low (& even the highbeams) of the Halogen bulbs look merely ornamental, something to cover a DOT legal requirement & not much else. The color difference is pretty stark as well Halogen is at 4300K & LED is 6000K. Think tan Rx bottle color compared to a piece of copier/printer paper.

A future upgrade is going to be a 30" dual row light bar that will sit just under the top cross bar of the fairing for my RTT. Because of how little use it will actually get I can't justify $1k for the RI light bar. I'll probably go with the LLEDL light bar. It's hard to go wrong with <30% of the RI price with a lifetime guarantee.

Before I do that though I need to do an electrical system upgrade to at least a stage 2 but ideally to a stage 5 if I can figure where to put another battery at. Hopefully before Rock Therapy 2016 I can get that & one of these 50qt ARB fridge/freezers.

#EAF

 

brb, going to do this

 

I have a guy that builds big three upgrades if you're interested...

 

in fact, there's a group buy that he might let you in on...

 

I'm Almost done with upgrading my "Big 3"! Although once I got started...I couldn't stop. Just ended up upgrading all my "charging and ground" wires. And now I think I'm going to just go ahead and add a second battery. Heck, I've already got $400+ into it so far.

@ramonortiz55...you need to make the Yellow Top battery GB happen over on TW...especially if I'm going to need 2 more batteries!!

 

its gonna happen. my vendor is taking forever to get me my numbers

 

My only question @ramonortiz55...what do you do with the battery if it is defective during the 3 year warranty? Normally you take it back where you bought it? I don't want to have to ship an 50lb dead battery...that would be exspensive!

So...How much are we looking at for a yellow top? Thanks

 

that's a good question...

I don't have any numbers yet..ill post as soon as I get them

 

Thanks @ramonortiz55...appreciate it Sir!

 

What do you want pictures of ??

 

I'm confused, so now you have control of the DTRL?

I was wanting to see how the lights now work.

Blue

 

This is how I disconnected my DTRL's. I just unplugged this connector just like @Husky Driver did. Everything else continued to work as normal. The only thing that changes...is the DTRL's do not turn on! Your headlights come on as normal. They are not any brighter...or anything... they just work normally.

Most guys want to disable their DTRL's because they have changed out the headlights one way or another. Either by installing HID's or a set of LED bulbs. If you've done either change...you have to turn the DTRL's power off otherwise that power will fry your new bulbs.


So you really don't have "control" over the DTRL's...you just shut them off by disconnecting the plug...you permanently shut them off....the only way for them to come back on, you would have to re-connect that connector plug. Now if you are wanting to control the DTRL's and be able to turn them off and on from the driver's seat...you'd have to cut that plug off...run wires from the plug back into the cab and attach to a switch. I hope this help Sir.

 

i need me DTRL off to not blow my cover when im stalking people

 

It's not working...cause I saw you yesterday...Right before our SSS meeting.