Lets talk Under coating / Rust Prevention

FWIW:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXlhmbvdKBo

Spoiler alert: Guy seemed to have conducted a solid, well conceived test, though of course it has limitations as not all variables could be accounted for. So "Your results may vary."

In the test, Krown worked very poorly, and NHOU wasn't much better. The Rust-oleum rubberized coating worked ok but was considered too risky because of the potential for trapping moisture, making rust more likely instead of less. Plus, overspray was a big concern since there's a lot of stuff you don't want that gunk on.

Fluid Film and the product like it worked well, but attracted dirt and was easy to wash off. The cosmoline-containing products like the Amsoil and CRC worked well, did not attract dirt and and would not come off under pressure washing. So in principle those products seemed best overall. However, he noted that the manufacturers recommend two applications and a 12 hour cure time before driving.

 

I'm also curious about who this Steve guy is.

 

Do you need his number? If he is still doing it because of the Covid thing. He got a great setup. He works at a car dealership in the garage. He does it after he is done his shift at work. Only does it in the evening. I think it took him about hour and half to do my 2020 AG Pro. The

 

Here is a pic.

 

Well, if he has a presence on a forum somewhere, I guess I could contact him through that forum. Radster a couple posts back was also curious who he is. Thanks! The pics look nice, too.

 

He has a post going on the other Toyota forum .org. Just google search it. It should come up. I gave Radster his phone number to text him. Thanks.

 

Gamma Ray I just texted him and Steve said if anyone want s his cell to give it to them. So let me know. We were just chatting.

 

Oh yeah, that Toyota forum Thanks a bunch. dedonderosa. I'll keep him in mind as we get into the fall.

 

No problem!!

 

I usually don’t rust proof, but I’m thinking of using fluid film this year on my 2018 ORP. So, what’s your experience with drips? Smell? How easy is it to wash off in the pressure washes in winter? How greasy does it leave everything underneath when you need to be under it for a repair? Thanks!

 

Smell not too bad only a day or so
I have done the 6 cans and wand on Amazon the last 2 years on my 2018
Already have 6 cans ready for this year
It almost like prayer
Cant hurt...should help. Its a nice thick coat of snot so to speak. Keeps air and brine from touching anything

 

How are the drips on the garage floor?

 

its very thick no drips.

 

I would only expect it to drip if it gets real warm, it’s thick. Smell goes away in a few days, but at times you can catch a little smell, I like it as it reminds me I did it.

 

Another +1 for Woolwax and Fluid Film. For 8 years I used Fluid Film on my 2011 FJ, always sat outside in snowstorms in NYC and MA, was very impressed with FF (Spring and Fall applications) Discovered Woolwax (FF's bigger tougher brother) 2 years ago and started the bi yearly applications on my 2018 4runner. Stuff is amazing! Thicker and holds better through the winter. I also use it to coat the wheels to help with corrosion. Saw that many 4x4'rs down under use it (lanolin/sheeps wool wax) as an undercoating and wax applications for wheels and paint to keep the rust at bay from the Australian beaches.
When I went to do my spring wash and wax this year there was still a nice coating on the frame and wheels, This fall may get a little more detailed and remove wheels but as many have said, a few cans and a couple hours you can crawl around underneath and spray all the nooks and crannies. The flexible wand is a great help. Will attract a very light coating of dust but I'm ok with that over the winter for the rust protection value.

 

On our Tacoma we went for the "rust Prevention spray" from the Toyota dealership, it was kind of costly($400), and I know they made out on the deal, but when we got the frame rust bulletin on Tacomas we had it inspected at the dealership and there was NO spots of corrosion. It did it's trick. We drove it through 3 yrs. of Wisconsin salt and winter roads and do I think it was worth it, I think so, the reason I did not apply some kind of rust inhibitor was the fact that I do not have a lift, which I thought would be the best way to do it. So what ever they use (they called it CRC I believe) is a good product. Can we get the same product at the parts stores? Probably, it kind of came out to a conveinience thing, plus they touch it up for free as long as I own it. So we went with it on our 4Runner too.

 

Fluid Film believer (last 3 vehicles). Live in Rust Belt as well.

If you go this route and do the applications, do yourself a favor and buy the 24" - 365° extension hose. Makes short work of and ensures full coverage inside the frame rails/spring perches/etc.

It will drip if applied heavily in higher temps. An 8' x 12' plastic painters tarp keeps it off the garage floor/driveway.

 

As I recall from the video review I posted earlier, the CRC is pretty much identical to Fluid Film. Both looked, applied and worked exactly the same, though the CRC was cheaper.

 

So if I do touchups at home buying either would be OK. I don't want to get either one on me, the CRC is "sticky" for the duration, maybe all are. Rust prevention where I live (Wis.), is so neglected and over looked by a majority of people around me. I saw more attention paid to rust when I was in Fla. Anyway, thanks for the video, I must have blew by it, but I'll have a look. Now that I have the CRC on our 4Runner, it gets touched up when needed from the dealer, can apply the knowledge on rust prevention to others... I know a bunch of people with lifts! Thanks again

 

I chose NHOU only because it creeps under the rust and flaking oem frame paint. My 07 Sport has rust already and coating with a product that doesnt creep only accelerates the rust. So I guess it comes down to what stage of corrosion your frame is at. Some of those products will not protect spots where the coating got rubbed off because they thicken or harden.

 

I've used Fluid Film and CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor. My favorite is the CRC because it makes a hard waxy surface that doesn't attract dirt, I cant stress how much dirt fluid film attracts. Fluid film works, but every time I work on the car and I brush by the frame I have dirt rub off on me because the fluid film holds a layer of dirt on. I use fluid film on a majority of the underbody because it costs less and holds up to high velocity spraying and rocks a little better from what I've read, CRC is great for spraying inside the frame.

Neither fluid film or CRC should be used on unpainted or ungalvanized metal imo. Its like using only car wax to protect unpainted body panels, the wax will wear away and you don't want the metal to be completely defenseless when it does. Its the same with fluid film, it will protect painted surfaces from harsh road grime, but it shouldn't be the last defense.

My frame was treated with black paint (probably POR15) by the previous owner, and I found some surface rust in spots that were missed. I want to apply some por15, but I like to remove rust before painting. Por15 is good for painting over rust, what should I do so that it adheres well to clean rust free metal?

 

@Trekker good comments, I use rust converter after descaling with a needle gun or wire brush on a grinder. Then por15. I use FF sparingly for the reasons that you state. It does creep, and is great for inside frames and in body seams.

 

I just used fluid film for the first time today. I put some inside the frame rails, but I won’t be putting it anywhere else.
If you watch the video that’s posted above AND project farms undercoating video- the most durable and best products to use are cosmoline based products.


These are CRC heavy duty marine and LPS3. I’ve used LPS3 in all my applications including my brand new 2022 trd pro. This stuff cannot be washed off. It simply does what it is supposed to and it works amazingly well. A pressure washer does not remove this either.

It stays tacky and waxy, does not drip and it’s pretty well on there for life. Cosmoline was invented by the us military sometime around or after ww2 for storing equipment and ammunition in various conditions.

THE LPS3 is the only product the FAA approved for the coating of landing gears on certain aircraft.

 

I was driving through Maine last weekend and saw a large ZIEBART sign at a repair shop. Wondering if that company is still around?
One of those companies used to drill holes all over your vehicle and put plastic plugs everywhere...think it was "Rusty Jones" ?

 

Yup, had it done a couple of weeks ago. Took about an hour and the shop in St. Louis was awesome to deal with.

 

Never ever use Ziebart. The issue with hard coatings is that they trap moisture inside making it worse. Even if you got it done on a brand-new car, it will eventually crack and let in moisture. It will also coat harnesses and parts that you don't want coated.

Fluid Film all day and twice on Sunday. The nice thing is that it will creep along the surfaces and cover. Yes, it smells for a few days and collects dirt, but that's ok in my book. Be sure to get inside the frame and pull off the rubber caps and spray inside the rocker panels.

 

Absolutely a Canadian main stay in "salt belt" regions. Been Krowning my vehicles for years it works. It's not a wax like non drip spray. It'll make a mess of your driveway for a few days after application but that's the point it spreads. Key is to apply when dry in warm weather upon which it will spread into every nook, cranny and crease even going uphill which is why they offer the warranty if applied from new. The bottoms of my doors are greasy 4 inches up on the outside. But yes they do drill and plug holes to reach to the inside of the rockers and doglegs of the quarter panels. Yah it hurt to drill holes in my brand new 2022 but living in a "salt belt" it is a necessary evil knowing it still only slows down the rot if you drive in the winter. I pay extra attention to the frame as it is fully boxed and traps winter salt trying to delay the inevitable rot. After almost 12 years my 2010 Caravan stills looks pretty good compared to most of similar vintage.

 

Ohio here, I have my new vehicles Waxoyled right after I purchase them to keep the salt and brine from wreaking havoc underneath. I have a shop nearby that does a fantastic job. Used to have the rubberized undercoating done, but this seems to be the better option. Only drawback is if you off-road with it and get into mud, it doesn’t come off. So the underneath always looks dirty when the body is clean.

 

I woolwaxed mine, liberally. I also go in mud. I have learned to accept that it looks dirty all the time. Sometimes, it even looks rusty lol. But it’s what is on the inside that counts (under the woolwax).

 

Much agree. I had mine done in May with 600 miles on the odo. Same shop in St. Louis. Good experience. Took about 1.5 hours from the time I arrived to the time I left. I like that it goes on clear. They even do the doors and firewall, inner fender areas. They recommend you repeat once a year to keep the warrenty in effect. And it was only $140.00. So this will be it's first winter. So we will see how well it works. Next May, I'll take good photos while it's on the rack and report back.