Looking for a lift kit

So I just bought me a 1994 4Runner for 700 bucks so I felt like it was a steal now I’m trying to take it off-roading for some light climbing. I’m rarely new to the scene and would like to see what inputs you guys have that would help me get this truck ready. I’ve been looking at the rough country 4in lift kit but would like to have everyone take on it. Thank you

 

Welcome from Phoenix, I bet you will enjoy your build, keep a photo log. Personal opinion is not to go over 2.5-3” inch in a lift unless you understand all the ramifications of exceeding that much lift. Ask yourself what you want to be able to do in your ride and go from there. Best wishes no name no location.

 

Welcome.

 

Going to do a friend's 1998 3rd Gen this weekend. We got a Radflo 2.5", I think he's on 31" or 32", which look awesome of on the 3rd gens.

I'd avoid anything higher than 3", it's more lift than you think, and it may look disproportional without subsequently larger tires, which might be really hard to fit without a lot of cutting.

Awesome find!

 

Good advice from the replies. 2.5” is easy with no major mods, and plenty high to get into once the running boards are removed.

 

I had a rough country 4" kit on my 92 pickup. Just make sure you use a diff drop. A lot of people talk shit about rough country. I've used three of their lift kits on different vehicles I've owned and never had an issue. Maybe I got lucky with the three kits I've bought I have no idea, but I've been happy with rough country products. There aren't many lift kit options for the second gens. Ball joint spacers are relatively cheap if you aren't looking for a bunch of lift. There are several long travel kits available if you wanted to go that route.

 

Is it an auto or manual? If it’s an auto you do not have a whole lot of options. Why do you want to lift it? Are you trying to fit larger tires? If you get rid of the ass sag, assuming you have it like all of these do, with new coils and 1.25”-2” coil spacers and crank the front torsion bars you can get a couple of inches of lift and it looks good with 33x10.5 tires. Mine has 1.25” spacers and new coils on the rear and I cranked the torsion bars. I’m running 33x10.5x15 bfg all terrains. I’m satisfied with how it looks, I have mono max shocks so that with cranked torsion bars makes a stiff ride. It’s an auto FYI. Here’s a pic of my rig for reference. I’m happy with how it does off road, it does everything I need it to do.

 

Why does auto or manual have anything to do with what lift kit you can run? Ive never heard that before

 

It matters if you’re running a body lift. The transfer case linkage for the shifter is connected to the body. So it has to be modified with an additional bracket if you’re running more than an inch of body lift to keep the transfer case shifter from binding.

 

Gotcha. I assumed we were talking suspension lifts that's my bad. I knew body lifts were a pain in the ass on autos. I'm pretty sure there's kits that come with brackets to extend the shift linkages tho.

 

It’s all good. I should have clarified I was talking about a body lift when I was asking about it being a manual or auto.

 

To the OP. I noticed a CA plate on your runner. What part are you from? Hello from Sacramento BTW.

 

I’ll be up in Vacaville for my Grandfathers 103 birthday end of September. On the way out I usually do 80 to 99 through Sacto, that or 12 through Rio Vista to the same. Maybe we could meet up for a coffee if your free.

And congrats OP, heck of a buy for $700 !

 

I stay in the San Bernardino county, it’s a automatic and if I do put the rough country kit other then the differential is there anything else I should be aware that needs changing. Thank you in advance oh yes and I’m looking for suspension lift not just a body lift

 

Blazeland A-arms and some wheel spacers with Firestone rolling lobe air springs on the rear axle is what I am working into my 91 at present. The suspension offset spacer kits do nothing for tack width until you spring for new wheels and larger tires with more offset or wheel spacers on the rear axle. Total Chaos is another option but is a lot of money. The 31X10.5-R15s will get you into a lot of trouble/places and they don't overburden the brakes. But if you go bigger you will need to seriously look at upgrading the steering idler arm and the drag link that is attached to the pitman arm and tie rods. This is a very well known weakness on the 2nd Gens. Even with the OEM 31's I am seeing my new idler arm starting to get loose at the pivot for the drag link forgings mounting (<10K miles on the idler arm). Total Chaos has a nice double shear unit and drag link kit with spherical high angle rod ends ($$$). If you go for ball joint spacers which is a cheap and relatively easy way to get a bit more suspension travel, when you relax the t-bars the track width will be increased by about 3/4" per side and you will need to move the lower A-arm adjustments outward to regain your camber/caster wheel alignment as well as extending the tie rods to fix the toe set.

I have a less dented and quite rust free OEM front bumper and valance I am looking to get rid of, and am in Mission Viejo, CA (nine four nine) eight seven eight-one eight seven two text if you are interested?

 

Hey atgparker seems like you are very knowledgeable, so I was wondering what do you think or the rough country lift kit?

 

Jon,
Rough Country products have been around longer than most of the others. There offset kit basically offsets the lower A-arm pivots and cross member. The track width is only increased with wheel offset and wider tires. This is all very agreeable until you are snapping off the idler arm shaft. This will happen if you off road a lot with larger tires and wheels. I have witnessed it first hand. You should seriously consider the Total Chaos double shear idler arm and drag link as a steering solution. Trail Gear was offering an alternative but seems to be missing from their web page. There is one other company I know of in CA, JD Fabrication (Part #: th864xsk) that has an upgrade system but the idler arm doesn't look as robust as the Total Chaos design. But the idler and Pittman are double shear on the drag-link with heim-joints for tie rod ends.