First Gen Toyota 4quoia with a (2uz-fe) v8 (start up post 230)

I like it. Muck away!!!
Not to shabby.
That plate with the hole in it inside the frame is normal.
I maybe would add another body mount. A stock tacoma mount in the same location should work perfect. If you can find one with a tall body mount. it will be better.
I wonder how it drives, can I drive it?
Definitely not rude, lol... AWESOME!!!

 

When you do start your thread, I think you should, put it in a post here so I do not loose it. Its nice to know I'm not the only crazy person out there, lol. That is the whole reason for these forum's.

 

Ok Just read the whole thread. Nice work!

I recently had the idea of a 2UZ in a 1st gen and that's how I came across this. I remember drooling over your Tacoma when I saw it on craigslist.

What part of WA are you? I want to say it was posted in the Olympia area? Any chance I could come by sometime and check things out? I live in Tacoma.

 

There is a chance, but I'm not really in to bringing people to my home. I would be more inclined to meeting at a local public area. The 4quoia is not yet on the road, but the goal is to have it on and off the road before summers end. So I would not rule out the Idea completely.

 

I get it. I never do CL deals at my house unless I absolutely have no other choice.

Just hoping to get some inspiration/talk you into doing a swap for me in the future!

 

So I found a 1988 at a local wreaking yard I rarely visit. I am kinda pissed at my self for not checking in there as it has been there around a year. So last Friday, I spent a few hours picking on the leftovers. It happened to have the sun roof, rear door with glass, chrome windshield trim, rear cargo light near perfect, and some more odds and ends. The top was gone, so I didn't try to bring it all home. The interior was all RRREEEDDD!


Yesterday, I got some corner light pigtails from Bangkok, Thailand. I made the purchase June 6th. I ordered these because I did not have all 4 bulb sockets.



I was trying to put the wiring together with time correct plugs for replacement parts, but the two plug ends are bulky and a bit much. The resistor was attached with those shitty blue things, I do not know what they are called.

Here it is cleaned up with the new end. I tried to use the correct color wires, but the gauge was half the size I needed. I also soldered the resistor in. The mail plug end on the resistor side is from the original 89 t4r wire harness. They are the same plug style as the plug ends I installed on the electric fans.


Now you know how I get good at this. I do it over and over again, LOL!

 

I have been working on the dash wiring. My goal is to start putting the first gen parts in and getting them wired up. All the while repositioning the 01 wiring into place, getting a feel of where and how it will fit. I installed the heater boxes and loosely fit in the engine computer. Here is a peek.


In this photo, it can be seen, the benefit of getting rid of the A/C option. I do not know where I would have installed the computer.

besides wiring, I am running out of obstacles to have this thing on the road. Today A new windshield installed with the chrome Picked up last Friday.

I had one company that found one in Portland Oregon for 375, but it had to be shipped here then installed. So 375 plus shipping and then installation wow? On Tuesday this week, I called to see if this other company could get the glass. He said he could for 220. Then I asked him how much to install. He said it was included. I then told him The truck does not run. He said that was fine. They do it on the spot. That was a easy choice, sign me up. One less thing stopping me from running the 4quoia down the road.

 

I went after the Hazard switch today. On the sequoia, in the integration control and panel (area around the radio), when the hazard switch is pressed, the green with red strip wire sends a ground to the flasher relay.


On the first gen t4r, the hazard switch is located on top of the steering column. Since I traded out the column for a 07 t4r, I now had no switch. I went to my tacoma wiring and got a dash switch and pig tail. It fits in the radio trim.


This is the wiring diagram from the 03 tacoma (my first v8 swap)


A closer look at the switch wiring.

The switch gets two positives from the top. When the switch is pressed to the on position, a positive signal is sent through the green wire to the flasher relay.

Since the sequoia was reverse polarity from the switch, I grounded the (L-W) blue white wire and connected the (G) green wire to the (G-R) green with red strip wire from the control panel. I removed 4 wires as they were not needed.

but I did leave the (W-G) and (G-R) on the tacoma switch, they are for the triangle light. It lights up green.

All that work for one wire, LOL! The good news is that it works. I left a lot of wire so it can be re positioned later.

 

I hooked up the heater. It is only 3 wires.

I had to dig around to find the correct gauge.
The black w red and black w yellow stripe is connected to the sequoia heater relay in the engine bay fuse box.
The black wire is grounded to where the sequoia fan motor was grounded.

I grounded a wire from the integration and control panel That switches the sequoia heater relay to on when the ignition is in run.

Originally the 89 heater relay had constant power, so having a first sequoia heater relay powering the second 89 heater relay should not cause any problems. The whole heating system has 2 relays and 2 fuses.

The 89 heater relay is then switched to on by the 89 heater fan control switch. When the fan switch is moved from off to low (II), a ground is sent to the relay activating it. The same happen's on (III) and (HI). The power is sent through the blower resistor giving the fan motor different levels of power resulting in the variations in fan speed.


It still looks like a mess.
The heater wiring also powers a second relay for the rear heater and the A/C button that also powers a 2 wire plug. Both rear heater and A/C switches I will leave in for now. I may want to do something with them later.

I also powered up both door courtesy lights.


I took the illumination wires from the integration control and panel to light up the heater control unit.


I also powered up the dome light. I may need to connect the drivers door to the passenger door to get the dome light to come on with the passenger door.


I learn as I go, but the lights are coming ON!

 

This one got me for a day or two.

The first gen t4r does have what is called an illumination package, (Lights in the doors?) so when the drivers door opens, the light in the door and the dome light come on.

The same goes for the passenger door. There is a Diode that only allows current to flow in one way. This is what keeps both door lights from turning on with the dome light.


First it took me a while to find them.
Here they are.

The one on the right is for the passenger side.
The big box on the left is for the drivers side and also has seat belt buzzer bull included.
I patched them in and got them to work.
The size of the drivers side box was too large. There was no interest to install it into an already cramped firewall.

I went to the 88 in the wreaking yard to find another small diode, but it did not have the lights in the door panels, so it was not there.
It was driving me banana's trying to figure out how to make it work. I almost just wired it without the diode's.

Then today I went through the sequoia manual page by page looking for the diode symbol.
Found it!, in the multiplex communication system.


In the sequoia, it is a 3 wire diode. One wire goes to the door light and the other goes to the body ECU.
It still took a while to figure them out.
The light in the door (+) black with white stripe is connected to a constant positive white with red stripe of the sequoia.
The (-) is black is connected to the first gen door switch (the plastic plunger in the door jamb) and the driver side sequoia LG-B. passenger side sequoia GR-R.


The new repurposed sequoia diodes are are connected the same on both driver and passenger sides.
B-O is to ground at door jamb, R-Y go to the dome light and the extra R-W wire I will now run to the rear storage areas beside the rear seats.

LOL, the plastic cubby's in the rear panels will now have dome lights.

 

All those wires makes my head and eyes hurt just looking at them!

 

MAN!!! I LOVE THIS BUILD!!! Way to go OP! Keep it coming! Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

Your head and eyes, LOL! Mine are fried. It's starting to wear on me. Definitely want to get back to getting her running.

 

Today I found myself daydreaming of a drive at the beach.

 

As far as today's progress, drivers side power mirror is now wired.


Also wired in a relay for the power windows. The sequoia window switch had a main power all the time. So a relay was the way to go.
4 wires.
Small ground
Small power from ignition sequoia window switch
Main power from sequoia window switch
power out to 4runner master switch.


The relay found in some of my tacoma wiring. I put it at the bottom of the drivers kick panel.

 

Haven't done much since Friday. Here is a quick pick of the courtesy light for the rear seat panel pocket.

Right now when the door opens, the light comes on. I am thinking of using the Diode to have both rear courtesy lights on each side turn on with each door. Not just one light for one door. Also I plan on installing a switch to turn light on when needed with doors closed.

And now some motivation to keep us all going.

In the beginning!

and now July 26th

Lets get the darn wiring finished already.

 

Today it was the drivers side seat belt warning light. Just a ground and green w yellow wire. I had to fish out a plug end out of a pile of wires. Now it is working. Set the ignition to on and the seat belt warning light blinks until the seat belt is latched. Now because I do not have the fancy sequoia seats, I do not have the seat sensors that activate other passenger seat warning lights. That makes it easy, so oh well.

I also pulled out the power antenna relay and some integration control wires that were related to the A/C.

 

I went fishing again today.

Here is some of my catch.


and the rest of today's catch.


Then it was added up with the every thing else caught from before today.


Just a little off the top, got to trim the fat.

 

I don’t want to go fishing with you. I will starve.

 

At least I do not need a permit. Or wait, maybe I do, LOL.

Some more fishing to day. I pulled out the rear heater relay off the heater box. Also some plug ends. I finally got all 4 plugs from the integration control and panel removed with more wires.
today's catch!

So I need to get switches into the correct position blended into the first gen dash. To get wires hardwired and into position I hooked up the heater control panel and lower dash.
before


and now.


To be honest I am worried about the size of the fuse box and junction block that is above the gas peddle. How will I hide them?

Also I will have to pull it all out and tidy up the wire harness across the top of the firewall. Then installing the heating ducts will be next hopefully not having to reconfigure any of the wiring.

Tomorrow it will be the clock then the shift lock. I had the shift lock hooked up, but it was back-feeding current into the body ECU. It was causing relays to flicker. I am going to use the newfound knowledge of diodes to solve this, I think?

 

Pulled a few wires.


On the shift lock, I noticed, the tacoma part
(U1 key interlock solenoid)
(unlock warning switch)
It is a solenoid.

On the sequoia the part (U1 unlock warning switch)
It is a switch.

So I hooked up the shift lock how I had previously. When the key is on, the shift lock works normal. But when the key is off, relays start flashing, click click click click. So I got the original diode from the first gen passenger door. I spliced it in at the shift lock.


This is the other end just below the ignition. This wire goes to the body ecu.


Here is my take on the shift lock. The triangle and line is the symbol of the diode. It shows that the current cannot flow the direction of the triangle. It stops at the line.


On the sequoia, 3 systems show the part (U1 unlock warning switch). They are Multiplex comunication system, Wireless door lock control, and Light auto turn off. This is the diagram that is simplest.

The diode allows the ground to travel into the shift lock for proper shift lock operation and stops any ground from traveling back from the shift lock to the body ecu.

I'm not sure if the difference in switch and solenoid is the cause of the feedback or if it is that the sequoia was just not designed for it.

So the 4wd, overdrive, shift lock, and clock are now loosely wired in. They will be hardwired after heating duct's are in place.
At the least now I can tell the time.

 

Not much being done today.


I did go and grab the core support from the 88 at the wreaking yard though and another switch for the sequoia tail gate key switch. The original broke from twisting and bending.

Also stopped by the local muffler shop and made a plan.

 

I have been messing with the rear wiper. I hooked up the wiper switch, wiper back door relay, and the wiper motor roughly at the rear gate. I got it to work normally. I also got the wiper motor to work normal without the relay. I am trying to get down to the bare bones to see if I can make it work with the new Sequoia wiring. I would like to be able to use the sequoia switch on the steering column, but we will see. If I must, I will wire the original components to work how it had been designed. I moved the hazard sw to the left knee area. That will free up a slot next to the window up down sw above the radio.

 

being a bit burnt out on wiring, I've been avoiding the project all together. I did however manage the enthusiasm to change out the window channels and power window regulators. I put in the sound deaden-er in the passenger door.

 

The windows would go up and down slow. I found the window channels on ebay. They are original toyota.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-88-TOYOTA-TRUCK-4RUNNER-FRONT-DOOR-GLASS-CHANNEL-RUN-NO-VENT-68141-89107/173491059268?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The regulators are not toyota, so I will hold on to the ones I took out. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Window-Regulators-Front-Pair-Set-LH-RH-for-Toyota-Pickup-Without-Vent/130557482730?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I also picked up some small green LED's
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-Green-Wedge-T5-3-SMD-LED-Bulbs-Dash-Instrument-Gauge-Speedometer-Light-74-17/121485671705?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The little buggers are bright. The bulbs would have that small green cover on them is why I chose green.

 

While my attention has been required in other areas, I manage to get some work done.
Preparing to run the wires for the rear wiper motor, I have been working the wire harness into position. You can see the zip ties holding it to the stock wire harness locations.


The left passenger pocket light is now wired in leaving enough wire to put light in any position. It will likely get some more attention with having a switch installed and a diode so both pocket lights come on with ether door.


And some Dome exciting news!

I managed to figure out what wire to use for the dome light I am installing in the rear wiper cover. It still needs a wire plug installed to disconnect when removing the top.

So this rear top dome light comes on when ether door opens. After using the key fob to role the rear window down, the light also comes on when unlocking the rear gate. Also when the gate is down, the tail gate can be locked and the light will remain on until the gate is finally closed.

Ya all should have seen me at the back smiling as I unlock and re lock the tail gate turning the light on an off. LoL!

 

Side-tracked much? = YES!!!

We got a new addition to our family.

This is a 1981 Bethany Citation 760

 

That’s a cool setup, all the beds on one end. To me it looks more practical and appears to have more useable space.

 

Tidied up a little wiring today. The heater relay, shift lock, hazard sw, 4x4 sw, clock, and o/d sw are now fit, trimmed, soldered, heat shrink-ed, routed through the dash in the permanent location. It is looking cleaner. I did leave the hazard sw above the radio. It was less work. The rear window up/down sw needs to be moved to above the radio. The rear wiper sw, relay and wires need to be ran. I found the rear window wiper blade.