Driver's seat wires not plugged into anything?

Well guy's hope all is well with every one, Got more work done on the 4runner. Got it starting and running better...
been driving it around on my place. still need to do the brakes and tire's then wait for the DMV to open up so I can renew registration on it.
I will post pic's soon.. Thanks for every one's help

 

Would you mind if we ask what you did to solve the "rough running then dieing" troubles it had?
Enquiring minds want to know

Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress so far! I feel sorry for you, still having to face the whole DMV scene. That's going to be the hardest part of getting your 4Runner on the road again.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

OK so the problem I was Having was that I wasn't getting fuel to the cold start injector. I tested the injector and I was getting fuel when i put 12v to the injector. then I tested the cold start injector time sw. it tested good.
so I checked the wining and every thing checked OK. So I just put in a push button in the dash and wired it to the cold start injector and now it starts every time. then with it running rough and wouldn't idle I found some vac leaks so I replace a vac hose and replace the upper intake gasket and now it runs really good. now it's on to the brake's and power steering..

 

Thanks!
All that info may come in awfully handy for me, if noone else!
I wonder about the CSI, though. There must be some part of the circuit you're missing, but hey, if you're happy with it now, more power to ya!

Thanks again for the info. I appreciate it...
Pat☺

 

No problem Pat. CSI fix's is just temp for now until I can find the problem. But at lest I can drive it now.

 

Had this problem with my friends 87 pickup. We installed the engine, wiring, and steering column into a 84 t4r. Then the 84 t4r had the problem. It was the electric ignition on the back of the keyed switch. We switched it out for the original 84 and the problem was gone.

 

Thanks for the info 36tacundra I will have to ck the ignition SW. Been thinking about replacing the SW. The wiring to the SW are starting to crack. I will post what I find....

 

Well was going to take the 4runner to get it smog but found out the cat was busted up inside so I need another one to get it to pass smog. At this time I don't have the funds to get a new one. So my questions is this. will one from a 84 22r pickup work on my 85 22re 4runner ?
Thanks for any help

 

If it fits and is Cali approved it should work no problem.

 

OK guy's need some info. Can I bypass the brake load sensing proportioning valve or do I need to replace it!! just wanted to ask.
Thanks

 

Best to replace it. It has a good function in the way the truck stops. It matters.
Are you certain it's bad, and doesn't just need to be bled? when you bleed the brakes, as you definately should, do you bleed the LPSV too? It's a part of the system that is just important to bleed as the rest.
Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Thanks Pat. It's leaking so I was just wounding

Thanks again

 

Just to be certain, for my own peace of mind, is it the LPSV actually leaking, or is it one of the brake lines? Input or output. Pretty easy to have a slightly loose fitting on one of them. Or the bleed valve, even.
If you're certain it's the valve it's self, that's fine, I was just making sure, you know?

BTW: Bear in mind my LPSV is still the factory original, but last year, I needed to have my truck put up on the lift at my mechanic's shop, for the first time ever. Needless to say, the rear suspension was therefore flexed to it's full throw. When we got all done with what we were doing, and took it down, the brakes felt totally different. Like a whole new system. All I can think is that the LPSV got run through it's full throw, along with the rest, and maybe let a small clog or something out. Whenever the brakes start to feel "odd" from now on, first thing I'm going to do is disconnect the LPSV's connecting rod, that goes down to the axle, and use it to run the valve through it's full throw a couple of times, and see if that improves things, again. I may just be imagining things, but it sure seemed to be different to me.
When I lived in Yuma, Arizona (lousy place to live. hated it), I did a lot of desert off roading. Needless to say, it bounced the truck, me, my wife, and my kids, around pretty good. I wonder if that didn't keep the LPSV flexing though it's full throw both ways, and kept everything freed up and working right. Since I moved up here to Oregon, the only reason I use the 4WD in the Runner is to be able to handle the snow and ice we get. Not a lot of suspension flex to that. I may just do the connecting rod when I bleed the system out every few years. We do have a bit more moisture in the air up here that the brake fluid will absorb, after all.

Sorry, I ramble. Good luck to ya! There's an excellent, easy, write up in the FSM on "how to" set the valve properly when you install it. You might want to read through it.
Pat☺

 

Thanks for the reply pat.
All the brake line are tight. It's leaking around the plunger that rides on the rod that goes to the axle. I have a spare 84 parts truck to ck and see if it has a good LPSV's on it. Both the 84 parts truck and the 85 4runner has been sitting around over 20 years. So hopefully it has a good one on it and I can get the brakes done. Then time to get smog and tags on it and start driving it

 

Yup! Definately sounds like the LPSV is bad. Unless the brakes on your parts truck are still in good shape, you won't be able to tell about it's LPSV until you put it in, and bleed it.
Make sure that after you replace the LPSV you bleed the entire system. There is an order to do it in, but I'm sure you're familiar with it. When you put the new LPSV in, you're going to have a lot of air in the system, especially the back half. Make sure, though, you bleed the entire system, including the LPSV. If you can, somehow, pump some brake fluid into it before you install it. It'll help reduce the bleeding you'll need to do. You'll still have a lot of air, but it'll be less than if you put in an "empty" LPSV. Any mushiness to the pedal means there's still air, so, more bleeding
Make sure, too, that the "new" LPSV's plunger moves easily. That it's not rusted up inside, or you'll be spending for a new one If it's been sitting for 20 years, with the brake fluid absorbing moisture from the atmosphere, which it does, the "new" LPSV could easily be rusted up solid.

Nice looking truck, BTW!
Good luck to ya!
Pat☺

 

Well finally got my brakes working on the 4runner. I replace the LPSV from my parts truck. Now just need to get the power steering hooked up then I can go and try to get it smog.. Woohoo