Where does this wire go?

Hi everyone,
Just did a valve job and replaced the head gasket, power steering pump, timing belt, water pump, everything I needed to replace really. I have the whole engine back together and this wire is the only part left over and the truck will not start. Does anybody know where it goes?

 

looped end is bolted on firewall, connector hooks up to a ground wire on the passenger side cylinder head, here’s some pics to help you out.

 

Thank you for the details and the pictures, I got it hooked back up. Unfortunately it is still not turning over. When I try to start it I hear a quiet click in the dash board, but nothing from the starter. It’s like the starter isn’t hooked up but I know it is. It’s the only thing I didn’t replace when doing this top end job. It was working just fine when I parked it. Any advice on where to start trouble shooting? I tried jumping the starter but was having trouble getting it to turn over, I only got sparks.

 

You can hit the starter with a punch and a hammer, or anything that can reach the starter, while someone is turning the key to see what happens. That’s where I always start if I suspect a bad starter. If it turns over you’ll know it needs a starter. I’m assuming you tested battery and made sure the cables were on tight. If nothing happens from hitting the starter, you need to figure out if power is getting to the starter. Get a test light and find a good source of ground. Disconnect the signal wire on the bottom of the starter. Have someone turn the key while you’re touching the test light to the connector. If the test light lights up while someone is turning the key, you’ll know that the ignition switch works and the wiring is good and that the starter needs to be replaced. The light has to shine bright, if it’s dim or not shining at all you have more problems to figure out.

 

Sounds like the starter relay is doing its job so that really narrows it down to the starter motor or power cable to the starter. Dezman92's suggestion is where I would start too. You can manually turn the engine around too right?

 

Hi Flyinhoot,
Yes, I can manually turn the motor over from the crankshaft pulley. I knew I should of replaced the starter when I had everything opened up, it would have been so much easier when I had the heads and exhaust manifold off.

 

hindsight can be a bugger

 

I tried whacking the starter and got nothing so I disconnected the bottom connector and got sparks all the way through that presses. Key was off too. Once I had the connector off I touched the Test light to it and it lit up with the key off. I had my niece turn the key to acc, then on, then start and I had the test light light up consistently threw all that. I guess I hooked some wires up wrong but I did very little with the electrical system through my valve and head job. I now have the battery disconnected and charging. I’m terrible with electrical. Also, I welded some foot pegs on my enduro and didn’t isolate the ignition system or disconnect the battery, now it turns over but no spark. Fuses are good but idk how to track that down. 4runner takes priority of course but while we have some more experienced guys helping me, I figured I’d throw that out there. Thank you for helping me, this whole project has taken forever and is rather frustrating.

 

Sounds like dezman is on to something... & maybe you were not testing the wiring he is speaking of? It should have no signal until the ignition is energized.
I believe if the other electrical components are normal when the ignition is actuated then perhaps this is less a possibility of the root cause.
I would just pull the starter and test that, then you are 50% there if that proves successful. & if not you’re on the right path
Happy hunting, you’re nearly there!

Don’t forget to only work on starters with the battery safetied

 

Wait so you removed the (+) from the starter while it was still hooked up to the battery?

Some balls of steel.

Signal wire should be the smaller one hooked up to the solenoid. Most likely in a connector and not bolted to the started.

 

Alright, I got the signal wire loose and tested that connector with the light and got nothing. Positive wire still shines bright but nothing from the signal wire.

 

Check the fuse and relay.

I'm guessing you left battery hooked up while doing the work? More fuses than just the starter could be popped.

 

Checked all fuses, not sure how to check the relay, I have a multimeter though. Autozone is 2 miles away as well

 

Try to check if your headlights work and I think you can swap that relay over to your starter. I can't tell from this if its the same.

https://www.autogenius.info/toyota-4runner-1989-1995-fuse-box-diagram/

 

The EFI is the same type of relay but the headlight relay has a different Prong layout

 

I tried swapping the efi and a fan relay into the starters spot and got the same results, nothing. I think the relay is good.

 

I forgot to mention that when I tried to flush the fuel lines out that I had no juice to the fuel pump. I turned the truck to the on position and was expecting fuel to shoot out into a Gatorade bottle I set up but got nothing so I disconnected the line a ways back and used some air to make sure it was clean. Related issue to the lack of electricity to the starter?

 

Ive also had fuses look okay but be blown. Id check them with a multi tool or swap them to one you know is good with same amps just to be sure.

 

I’ve checked all the fuses I could find, a few under the hood and a few by the drivers feet and they are all good. Checked as many relays as I could with the headlights relay. Checked all the grounds I could find. I’m thinking maybe there is a ground underneath by the starter I can’t see? I can’t figure out how to get electricity to the signal wire. There’s also a possibility that I hooked up the knock sensor wires wrong as one of the connectors broke on the disassembly. Don’t think That would prevent me from being able to crank the motor over.

 

If you directly put power to the starter solenoid the starter works right? aka bypassing the signal wire and all that for diagnostic purpose. Possibly the starter is just totally frozen?

 

My next idea is to wire a toggle switch to the starter solenoid and try that. I’m far from an electrician but this seems the easiest fix. Should I use a certain type of toggle or certain gauge wire? Thinking I can use the same gauge wire that the solenoid is right?

 

I wouldn't recommend this since its not the right fix. Find a wiring diagram and see where that solenoid trigger wire goes.

 

If you hide it it can be a secret kill switch which is better than any alarm. Just make sure its a strong heavy duty switch and Id recommend a fuse as well. Edit: Dillusion is correct in this regard. I would only do this once other options are ruled out. You can add a kill switch in many better places anyways.

 

I'll help with reading the diagram no problem I just don't have time to search for one.

I did a quick google without much luck. But I didn't spend more than 5 min on it either.

 

This must be isolated to the ignition switch itself... didn’t Matty say the fuel pump isn’t energizing as well? The toggle switch is mute if there’s no fuel being pumped...

 

I rigged a switch to bypass all the fuses and relays and was able to get the starter going but it’s not starting. I have the distributor cap in the middle position, I have fuel, but no ignition. It almost sounded like it was about start but nothing. I have spark, I have fuel on the plug. The battery is good, everything seems good but no start. I’m thinking I should charge the battery for a little bit and then try turning it over again. I will attach a wiring diagram. I would really like to fix the problem but having this secret way of starting her doesn’t seem like a bad idea.
https://images.app.goo.gl/KxudfhodggSsX8XUA

 

I have fuel and fuel pressure. Spark and compression. I feel like I have everything I should. Distributor cap is not where it should be as I put a new cap and wires and plugs. I have a timing light but I think I need to have it running to time it right?

 

They have to start in sequence... pump then starter.
is this a manual and you are missing the clutch interlock?

 

Distributor is going to be important...It should only have one method to index to the cam on the head. You literally can’t get it wrong.
You have to time it close enough to start, that is done when you index the head to the crankshaft via timing belt- then advancing/retarding the spark is the fine tuning you would do with The light.
Does this sounds correct. Not sure where 95 was at: but the clutch inter lock or for auto trans there is a neutral interlock that has to be satisfied for starting sequence.

 

In the circle...