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Anybody know what's the best way to check for leaks, fix those leaks, then charge up the system?

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by MonkeyTwitch, May 8, 2020.

  1. May 8, 2020 at 10:37 AM
    #1
    MonkeyTwitch

    MonkeyTwitch [OP] New Member

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    Hello Folks,

    Thanks in advance to any of you who offer your suggestions. I appreciate it.

    My AC blows when it's turned on, (1992 4runner 3.0). But, there's no cool air coming out. It just blows whatever the temp is. Not sure if this tells me much?

    I see a AC Manifold Test and Charge Kit. But, not sure how to detect where the leak might be if I even have one. I've seen Leak Sealants for AC, but not sure when those should be used, if at all?
    Also, once all this is done, I think I will need to charge with some R12. From what I've read, R12A contains propane and is flammable. I do not want to convert to R134.

    Thanks
     
  2. May 8, 2020 at 11:24 AM
    #2
    Dillusion

    Dillusion Resident A**h***

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    Pretty sure you can't even get R12.
     
  3. May 8, 2020 at 2:46 PM
    #3
    MonkeyTwitch

    MonkeyTwitch [OP] New Member

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    EBay, but not cheap.
    Just watch out how people word their listing and dig into it to make sure it's not R12A
     
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  4. May 9, 2020 at 11:21 AM
    #4
    trlhiker

    trlhiker Lazy Bum

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    Mine is the same, blows ambient air. I am pretty sure I have a leak somewhere as the month before it went out it was blowing cold. I converted to R134 a long time ago. Going to take it in soon to get it recharged and hopefully find the leak. Last time it leaked, it was the Schrader Valve that leaked it out.
     
    MonkeyTwitch[OP] likes this.
  5. May 9, 2020 at 11:27 AM
    #5
    PennSilverTaco

    PennSilverTaco Encyclopedia of useless information...

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    I know people have R-12! Unless you can track some down, I’d recommend converting R134a. BTW, it’s not called “R12a”; There’s R-12 and R134a. R-12 does not have propane in it, but propane can be used as a drop-in replacement; This is NOT recommended!

    R-12 is superior to R134a, but we have the EPA to thank for its demise :mad:

    As for finding the leak, have your mechanic add UV dye; My Tacoma had pretty significant leak in the evaporator core that was found with UV dye.

    Also, do not mix R-12 with R134a! They use different oils; One uses mineral oil and one uses POG oil or something (I forget which is which); Using R134a in an R-12 system with properly retrofitting will destroy the system. If the conversion is done properly, you should be able to reuse the compressor.
     
  6. May 9, 2020 at 11:28 AM
    #6
    PennSilverTaco

    PennSilverTaco Encyclopedia of useless information...

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    @Fourtoad

    Is your ‘91 still R-12 or did you convert it to R134a?
     
  7. May 9, 2020 at 11:39 AM
    #7
    PennSilverTaco

    PennSilverTaco Encyclopedia of useless information...

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    I got my Tacoma new in September 2009 and had it nearly eight years before the A/C seems to have developed a leak; The A/C was blowing ice cold on the driver’s side, but luke-cold from the center right vent and humid outside air from the far right vent...

    I took it to my independent mechanic in June 2017; He hooked it up to this machine and pressure-tested the system. He found no leaks but recharged the system and it got me through the remainder of the summer...

    When I used the A/C for the first in months in April 2018, it was blowing warm from the far right again; I brought it to my mechanic yet again, and he couldn’t find the leak AGAIN but charged the system.

    The system worked okay until July, and then it seemed to get progressively worse as that month wore on; We had one hell of a heat wave in late July-early August, and luckily the A/C worked well enough to get me through a weekend in Carlisle for the Truck Nationals. By the time I got back home, the A/C was definitely getting worse. Strangely, it was blowing colder than usual from the far left vent while the far right vent was like being in a sauna.

    Fed up, brought it to the dealer as a last resort; The dealer found the system to be a pound low on R134a and recharged this system, also adding the UV dye...

    Allowing the dye to circulate, I brought the truck back to the dealer about two weeks later; It was worst case scenario, as the UV dye confirmed that the leak was from the evap core...

    The service manager brought me back and showed me the leak; I ended up having the dealer replace the evap core and expansion valve for almost $1,600!

    The good news is that the dealer actually fixed it! Also, there is a warranty that’s good until September 2020 so if something breaks before then I don’t have to pay for it!
     
    MonkeyTwitch[OP] likes this.
  8. May 9, 2020 at 12:24 PM
    #8
    4x Old Guy

    4x Old Guy New Member

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    I’ve got some 12 oz cans of genuine R-12 freon, a hose, and 1 can of R-12 oil I’d be willing to sell if you’re interested.
     
  9. May 9, 2020 at 6:07 PM
    #9
    Fourtoad

    Fourtoad Gatorgrl's Yotas

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    We are using R-134 in our Runner. We have a shit pile of R-12, but its using R-134.
     
  10. May 9, 2020 at 6:16 PM
    #10
    SR5 Limited

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    I’ve never even recharged mine. It’s been blowing cold for almost 25 years.....,Good luck in finding the leak. I would replace compressor.,,,
     
  11. May 10, 2020 at 9:43 AM
    #11
    trlhiker

    trlhiker Lazy Bum

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    Wow, that is pretty amazing. Mine lasted about 10 years before it developed a leak.
     
  12. May 10, 2020 at 9:03 PM
    #12
    MonkeyTwitch

    MonkeyTwitch [OP] New Member

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    4x Old Guy
    How much for 4 cans?
     
  13. May 11, 2020 at 2:45 AM
    #13
    captsolo

    captsolo New Member

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    Needs a new air compressor IMO. Been there, done that!
    Compressors at Amazon is where I got mine. Cools almost like a new one, and I'm in the Bahamas where air is absolutely necessary year round.

    2005 SR5 V6 4runner (150,000 miles) - owned since brand new.
    Best car or truck I ever owned.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2020
    Fourtoad likes this.

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