Best way to lift or level kdss system??

Do 4Runners w/ KDSS have more rake?

 

No

 

I'll be lifting my '19 ORP with KDSS in a few weeks.

I was originally planning on using the ratchet strap method, but if I'm reading this right, I shouldn't NEED to do anything special other than be prepared to calibrate the system if necessary.

@4X4Runner , am I understanding this correctly? Can I perform the lift without taking any special steps to accommodate the KDSS?

I'll be using a friend's lift and working on both axles simultaneously. I am replacing the UCA's so that should help with the front strut assembly installation.

Sorry, I know this has been discussed to death, but I'm just trying to decide which method to use.

 

This is only if I need to do the calibration, correct? Otherwise I just don't touch it?

 

Thank you!

That's what I was hoping to hear. I'm installing 6112's and I'm probably going to set the driver's side a notch higher to compensate for the lean.

 

Did you ever complete the lift with your KDSS?

If/when you do, if you could document what you did (or didn't need to do) to work around the KDSS would be greatly appreciated!

 

It's going on next Saturday. The plan for now is to not touch the KDSS stuff at all. I'll do the calibration afterwards if necessary.

I'll update after it's complete

 

I look forward to hearing about it, thanks! My choices are to figure it out myself, pay an arm & a leg for a shop install, or drop the idea altogether...

 

This weekend I attempted to install a Toytec Boss Aluma 2.0 lift with JBA UCA'S, but I had to give up. Before I completely throw in the towel and pay for the install, I wanted to see if anyone had any insight for me. I removed the upper control arms, I opened up the KDSS shutter valves, I removed the front sway bar at the KDSS piston and hard mount, and I removed the bolts from the lower control arm ball joints. I was able to get the boss Aluma 2.0 driver side strut assembly in place, but the bottom bolt hole was way too low, and I could not get the lower control arm to go any lower. Any ideas to either compress the strut assembly or lower the lower control arm a little further? I did try compressing the spring, but it didn't seem to compress the whole strut assembly.

From what I can tell there are only two additional options. I can detach the sway bar at the LCA, but will that allow the LCA to drop more? Or, I read that if you loosen the rear LCA cam bolt the LCA can drop 180 degrees, but they tend to cease and might not be a good idea to do myself?

Thanks

 

Didn't they come with installation guide?

Fox Install guide:
https://accutuneoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/605-01-107_REV_C.pdf

 

You've got two options.
1. Disconnect the sway bar from the LCA (this is what I did) and loosen the alignment cam bolts. the LCA drops down out of the way, super easy to feed the new assembly in. I left the UCA connected the the spindle which was sufficient to hold that all in place. You also need to remove the lower ball joint from the spindle.

2. Keep fighting it and use a pry bar to "push" the LCA down far enough. In my option why struggle, it's two additional bolts.

I had never worked on a truck with KDSS (I did my own suspension work in HS and college) and it took me about 6 hours total to install my lift. The ratchet straps worked wonders for compressing the piston and for pulling the swaybar back to the LCAm I used two.

Hope that helps!

 

You should be doing anything with the KDSS piston or valves! Just disconnect the sway bar and do the installation.

There are several good write-ups on this site. Look back in this thread.

 

Thanks for the help. I did search a lot of threads, and watched tons of videos, and had instructions from Toytec, but no one seemed to have an issue with getting that bolt lined up. And removing the sway bar from the piston, and not the LCA was what Toytec said to do, and they have a video how to reinstall it, which was basically with just jacking it up. Ironman 4x4 has a video that shows how to back out the actuator valves properly, and Toytec sent me a video of how to correct the KDSS lean by using the actuator valves as well.

I suppose I'll make another attempt, but this time I'll disconnect the sway bar at the LCA. I saw a lot in this thread, but nowhere else, about strapping the KDSS up. Wouldn't this cause more tension on the sway bar at the LCA?

Thanks again

 

The compressing of the piston keeps it better aligned for when you disconnect the swaybar. The write-up is well documented on a PDF over on T4R. I believe it's on page 12

 

This is fine. My understanding is to disconnect the sway bar from the link on the passenger side and the piston on the driver's side before jacking it up.

I would not mess with those valves until after the lift was completed. And, even then, only if it was necessary.(KDSS light on dash)

Don't do this. You are correct. Some do this, but I believe it's easier if you don't.

Not if you are disconnecting the sway bar from the piston.

 

Then the only thing I didn't do is loosen the LCA cam bolts. You think that'll allow the LCA to drop further with the sway bar still attached to the LCA?

 

On that T4R thread, I also saw you should start on the passenger side, and of course I started on the driver's side. Not sure if that will actually help or not.

FYI, I was using a full vehicle lift, so that was why I thought opening up the valves like Ironman said would be fine. Not sure if it actually freed up the flow of the fluid or not. I think their reasoning was that you don't have to disconnect sway bar at all, but I don't see how that was possible. Maybe their coils are shorter.

Anyway, you guys have been great. Sorry if it seems like I'm repeating things already documented, there just seems to be several options.

 

This thread might help:

https://www.4runners.com/threads/glwood54-vs-stock-4r.12659/page-2#post-140673

Page 2 starts going into lifting with KDSS. There's a couple or PDFs with some detailed steps that may be useful.

 

So I ended up paying a Toyota mechanic to put it on. However, after driving it for a day, after I turn right and then go straight, it sounds like metal on metal grinding and then brake whining. I plan on taking it in, but any ideas? Should I be worried that the wheel spacers are a possible danger right now?

 

My $0.02: I did not disconnect the KDSS sway bar in any way, ratchet the piston, or open the shutter valves. I was about to do all these things then read the King install instructions, noted the bold “DO NOT DISCONNECT KDSS SWAYBAR” in them, and followed along. I was able to avoid needing a prybar, a second person, or touching the cam bolts. I disconnected the spindle at upper ball joint, and tie rod (on passenger side only... but that was because I couldn’t get the driver side to disconnect with a hammer and didn’t have the Pittman tool). A lot simpler than I was expecting!

 

Hello guys. Would anyone here recommend a spacer type leveling kit on a 2020 kdss equipped 4runner trd off-road? Looking to temporarily lift it with 2inch leveling kit and 1 inch rear.

Thanks for your advice!

 

Do you just want the look? If so, a spacer lift is probably fine.

 

Mainly just to give it a little stance. Just worried it will affect the kdss. I haven't really figured out which lift to get. Thanks

 

KDSS is fine up to about 3". There are tons of lift options depending on what you want to use it for. If it's a mall crawler, spacers are fine. For off-road use, coilovers are worth the money.

 

I have a running theory that kdss models with tss have an extreme rake.

 

That would be incorrect. KDSS only affects side to side lean, and articulation.