Bilstein suspension or Eibach pro?

Which is the better suspension to buy.

 

I don't think you could go wrong either way.

There are at least a handful of members here who are very happy with the Eibach setup.

I've been researching the Bilstein 6112's and am hearing a lot of positive reviews as well.

It might come down to the different ride characteristics of each and which suits your preference.

I'm curious what others have to say.

 

I hear good things about each one. Eibach is much cheaper for now, they are releasing a new line soon, fully adjustable rear front and rear. not sure about cost?
Many other choices, many rave about Dobkins, bilstiens, kings, icons

 

Since my 2020 Pro is new I’m just having Cornfed spacer lift added for now. Then I will put on 285’ down the road. Can not justify changing out a brand new suspension especially I don’t do off roading. Just my opinion unless you have the extra money to throw on a new suspension lifted the results on the fox suspension with added spacers there are really good reviews going this way. Guys are adding them even if you don’t have the fox suspension.

 

Does the Bilstein Trd Pro suspension level or add any lift.

 

My 17 Pro has the Bilstein and now my 2020 has the Fox suspension. They both sit about the same height. I believe there one inch higher. Comparing both I think the fox suspension feels better than my bilstein did. I like how the fox rides and I’m just improving the ride by adding the Cornfed spacers. Should have added they sit higher than the SR5 and off road.

 

Will the TRD PRO suspension kit PTR13-89160 fit 2020 OR Premium.

 

Can't speak to the TRD kit, but I just put 6112s and 5160s in my 2020 ORP withh KDSS. I love the ride.

 

Both are great and will perform similarly.

TRD Pro Bilstein will give your roughly 0.8" of lift height, will cost you more and will have less adjustability.

Eibach adjustable front shocks will give you 4 different height setting you can choose from and will cost less.

 

Fyi, may want to hold off. Eibach is working up fully adjustable rears. "4 weeks out". That being said, eibach can't make their kits fast enough.

 

Unfortunately... it may be a bit longer now

 

They released them, but got wrapped up in all the fear mongering and had to shut down.

 

One left, they sold the 1st batch. I didn't buy because not sure how long my job will last with the media frenzy

 

I’m running the eibach with Toytec springs. SPC Upper control arms and front diff drop

My overall ride and suspension has improved. I finally have a great alignment thanks to the SPC and no more nose dive

Haven’t tested it out off road yet

 

Went with the Eibach pro lift kit stage one got a great deal for the kit will not be adding any weight front or back just looking for leveling , should I also purchase UCA for alignment to be safe.

 

It wouldn’t hurt
But it’s totally up to you

 

Where did you end up buying from?

 

How high are you lifting the front?

It seems like 2.5-3 inches is the point where it becomes necessary, depending on who you ask.

I went 2.3", and did UCA's. I could have gotten by without them, but they're not hurting anything.

 

What is it about aftermarket UCAs that makes alignment better? IFS has me mystified...

 

I believe you need them to get the camber in spec. At some point, the stock ones are going be maxxed out and you'll have negative camber, if I'm not mistaken.

I thought I had read that the BDS uppers that I installed added camber. I assume that this is the case with the other brands as well.

I think it also said that they were NOT recommended for vehicles at stock height, or with less than 2" of lift.

 

Careful w that diff drop. It's not uncommon on the 5th gens for the diff drop to cause more problems than the slight angle change of the CV axle with a lift. CVs will ultimately need be addressed whether the truck is lifted or not. The added risk of additional parts failing (pinion angle on the driveshaft will lead to failure eventually) is an unnecessary risk in many people's opinions (this is a 5th gen side effect - not seen in older models)

 

It's actually the caster. Caster moves the tilt your tire forward and back in the wheel well. Positive caster gives your stability, helps maintain straight-ahead direction and promotes steering wheel self-centering.




When you lift your truck and your stock UCA sits at a lower angle, the geometry moves the caster closer to the neutral position and it gets harder to move the wheel in the more positive direction. The higher you lift, the worse it gets. Aftermarket UCAs help with this and the good ones allow you to get the caster numbers up to the higher end of spec (positive 3.5 to 4) where the truck drives much better (and also can help prevent rubbing on mudflaps and body mounts if you're using the stock wheel backspacing, wheel width, and offset).

 

This makes me feel better about skipping the diff drop. My #1 reason for lifting was to get the front differential further off the ground. Dropping the diff seemed counterintuitive.

 

I stand corrected. I know what caster and camber are, but I didn't fully understand how they were affected by lift. Thanks for the information!

 

On Amazon for 658.24 + tax now the price is 836.29 + tax free shipping

 

So if you lift your front suspension (any amount) and have oem UCAs, how does an alignment shop adjust the caster?

 

I think there's enough play in the stock ones to get in spec with smaller lifts.

I'm not really sure how it works, though.

 

With our trucks, caster is adjusted at the LCA but the UCA needs to be able to support that alignment change. As you lift the truck, the less the UCA can support positive caster. The good aftermarket UCA's have higher caster adjustments built into them so that when you lift the truck (and align it at the LCA), the new UCA can handle that change. Some aftermarket UCA's allow for up to +5 degrees of caster for our trucks.

I have a 1.6" lift in front with the stock UCA's. The alignment tech was still able to get me to +4 degrees of caster and mine drives really nice like this. I don't know at what lift height +4 degrees becomes impossible with stock UCA's......maybe 2" and higher???.......I'm not sure. But at some point, it does.

And I'm not saying you have to be at +4 degrees caster. There's people out there with 2.5" lifts and stock UCA's that think their trucks drive fine with their caster maxed out at +2.5 degrees (which is still within Toyota specs); however, their vehicles will not feel as stable, the steering wheel won't snap back to center as fast, and they'll wander a bit more on the highway. If you want to reduce all that, you'll want the caster to be on the higher end of spec (+3.5 to 4 degrees).

 

Hey JimmyAGR, what settings did you use and how much lift did you get? Any photos? Thanks.

 

Thank you. I appreciate the explanation. I'd like to be knowledgeable about all this when I take it to the shop.