2018 TRD Pro Shocks vs. Bilstein 5100

Hi All, I am new to 4runner world. Just boutgt a new 2019 TRDOR. Driving home from the dealer. I noticed front seem to dive most of the time coming to stop light. Read lots of thread and it seems to be fairly common. Does anyone know what might be the different between the pro with bilstien vs. The 5100 bilstien setup. I am Trying to be practical and spend my money wisely. A new 5100 setup is $380 vs. Buying use pro setup around $700-$800. Any input or experiences from anyone is very much greatly appreciated. There will be plenty more money I'll need to spend elsewhere eventually, wheels/tires, exhaust, CAI, Sprint booster. Thanks

 

Just sayin.

 

Yeah, $3500+... just sayin’ Or $950 just for front shocks.

 

Take a look at Eibach, i have seen some good Reviews https://www.4runners.com/posts/118659/

 

In addition to Eibach (good choice), I’ve been pondering Dobinsons. If you don’t need a system that requires UCAs, they have a whole system that include struts and springs, front and back, for just under $900.

 

Just installed them myself. I had a winch and slimeline hybrid put on as well with the 650lbs Bilstein springs. I wish I had got the lbs 700. Amazing shock, but you need to realize that spring plays a big part in nose dive

 

Thank you all for recommendations. I like to keep it close stock and I have no plan to put heave front bumper with winch. Does anyone know how I can purchase maybe a 600 lbs. Front spring for the bilstien 5100? I'll also look into the Eibach and Dobinsons.

 

You can buy the Bilstein 600lbs from me. They came with my set up and I had to buy my 650lbs separately. They are currently sitting in my computer room brand new. Send me a message if interested.

 

Eibach adjustable shocks or Bilstein 5100's with your stock coils will be the least expensive way to get rid of most of the nose dive. The Eibachs will have a smoother valving and the Bilsteins will be firmer.

The Pro suspension will be a little softer than the 5100s because they use a lower spring rate and different shock valving. The Pro Suspension feels more like the Eibachs, but will be much more expensive to get a similar feel.

 

nimby hit the nail on the head with everything he just said. I have the Eibachs with stock coils and have very little nose dive if any...

 

Thanks for the input and this is very helpful. Nimbly & Oey12, if I am using this mostly daily and highway driving, will only see dirt road maybe 5 times a year, which do you think would be best?

 

I cannot comment on Offroad experience because I honestly don’t use my truck as such. However I feel they are simply awesome. Now realize I have an SR5 without the KDSS. The body roll and nose dive Was very pronounced which sometimes made driving in the city very annoying. I did use the truck as a commuter car for a few years in NYC. The Eibachs do an amazing job at sucking up potholes and the terrible streets. And the truck has a much more planted and stable feel. My wife even commented on how well they ride after she was dead set against the upgrade. Bilstein makes a very good shock but the Eibach valving really sets them apart. I highly recommend them. I have ridden in a 2nd gen Tacoma with Bilstein 6112 and it was very nice but in all honesty I still would chose the Eibach. I didn’t find the Bilstein riding 300 bucks better for my usage. Please take this last statement with a grain of salt because they are two different truck with some similar characteristics. I have put many Bilsteins on my past Tacoma’s but now Eibach will become my go to choice.

 

Lots of great information here.
I will have to make a list of what works best with each other. As we have no trails around us I cannot justify Kings or the such (until I talk her into more camping & trips).
It is interesting to know some of the brands that were not mentioned.
My wife thinks I cannot drive the T4R due to the nose dive & I have to remind her I drive a 3/4 ton truck with a plow & spreader. Plus, I have a size 12 shoe. I just tap the brake pedal and into a dive we go!

 

The feeling I got when I hit my brakes...

 

Oey12, thank you for the valuable input. This 4runner is mainly be used by my wife. It just a bit annoying to me when I'm driving this and wanted to improve the ride quality. I myself also gave a taco and Bilstien shock and thought it was ok. Never had Eibach before and I'll try Eibach since it also got good review. Can you let me know what is the part number or model # you currently have on your 4 runner? Tha ks

 

Your welcome, I am glad to help out.

Here are the part numbers.

Front:

$137 E60-82-071-02-10 Pro-Truck Sport Shock, 1 Pack

E60-82-071-02-10

Rear: E60-82-008-02-01

I think your wife and you with appreciate the ride change...especially with your Bilstein/Tacoma experience. Additionally, I tow my ATV around for very long distances about 3 to 4 times a year. With the stiffer valving over the stock, the rear shocks helped significantly while towing. The sag is still there but the ride is very controlled with tongue weight.

 

The Eibachs perform very well offroad. The main difference between Bilsteins and Eibachs is that the Eibachs have a bleeder valve early in the suspension travel that smooths out the ride at low speeds. Once you get going a bit faster, start hitting larger bumps, or go offroad it will perform similarly to Bilsteins digressive valving. They are similar shocks, just some small differences in valving that make a big difference in ride quality.......especially on a rig that many of us use both on and offroad.

 

Thank you nimby, very informative in helping me making decision of which shock to go with. I agree since this is mainly for the wife's daily, can really justify for spending on Kong's.

Oey12, what setting on the snap ring do you have in the front struts? I think this is adjustable like the Bilstien correct?

 

Yes it’s adjustable by the snap ring just like the Bilstein’s. However the Eibachs provide much beefier bottom plates...

Even the guy that installed them who specializes in lifted trucks noticed the difference.

I used the 2nd notch (.85 I believe), first notch being stock height. My 4Runner gets loaded with a lot because it’s our primary family vehicle and I didn’t want to get sagging butt look. But many people have done the next highest setting without that look.

 

I'm one of those on the 3rd notch up with my Eibachs (1.6"). The rear of my truck is still stock height (with stock shocks too). This will give you a level stance if you don't put much weight in the back. I'm able to fit 285's as well.

 

I just went on a recent road trip. I have the same 1" rake you do except I'm @ 2.5/1.5-->with rear daystar spacers. 4 adults. Rear of 4runner loaded to the gills. No sagging.

 

I have stock coils not the Eibach. The shocks are the only components I changed.
Here is a picture with a very low tongue weight, about 80 to 100 pounds of weight in the rear deck (no 3rd row), 20 PSI in the airbags, and a full tank of gas.

 

I hated the nose dive on my 19 ORP. I am now running 5100’s with stock springs in front and 5100 with Icon overland spring in the rear. Nose dive is gone and the ride is great.. even bombing down sand washes! I did not change my UCAs. Will eventually change the front springs once I get a winch.

 

Nimby, what tire are you running with 285 and I take it 70/17 aswell? I am supprised with only 1.6 lift and now BMC and you have no rubbing issue in the front.

 

Oey12, I didn't know you are also running with Air bag in the rear. What brand air bag are you using? I also thought about using air bag since i drive to whistler once a year doing mountain biking, I will have 4 people including myself in the 4 runner, no third row seat but cargo space will be loaded to max. Then a bike rack with 4 bikes (approx. 250 lbs) onto the tow hitch. I am thinking I might also need to install air bag. Thanks for all the input, very informative as usual.

 

These are the one’s I purchased and I was able to install them without have to remove the rear coils but it was a big PITA! Allowing the suspension to droop and some Vasoline helped...

https://www.firestoneip.com/kit-search/

For the price you can’t go wrong and they are adjustable to your load. There still will be some sag but it keeps the truck level under load. And it eliminates the roll in the rear suspension which is greatly appreciated during towing.

An easier option is Timbrens which bolt directly to the factory holes for the factory bump stops. However sometimes if the truck is only slightly loaded you will get this odd feeling bump. It’s a very good product as well.

I have used both systems and prefer airbags even though it requires more work to install, more work to set, and more potential failures(air fittings and such). Timbrens are set it and forget it but work very well.

 

Firestone Destination A/T's. I do some offroading but I'm mostly on road, so I wanted a mild A/T tire. I also wanted something light to minimize weight. The P285/70/17's are 42lbs which is the lightest 285 I could find. After having them on for a while now, I love the way they perform. Really nice in the rain and on trails. Haven't had them in snow yet.

Rubbing has more to do with wheel offset, backspacing, and alignment than it does with lift height......unless you're rock crawling and fully articulating your suspension. If you retain wheel specs similar to the stock wheels, you'll minimize rubbing. Also, if you push your caster forward to roughly 4*, you will hopefully avoid a Body Mount Chop. However, when moving the caster forward you are more likely to rub on the front fender liner and/or a small corner of your fender flare. It's very easy to push that fender liner forward and trim the flare. Much easier than a BMC. I did the fender liner mod and didn't need the BMC.

 

Nimby,
1) Pushing caster roughly 4*, is this something only the alignment shop can do? This is not a DIY at home correct?
2) When pushing the caster forward 4*, does it affect the normal driving and handling in any way?
3) Will this wear the tire more quickly in a certain spot on the tire?

Sorry for asking these questions as I don't know much about alignment since I have my alignment done by the shop most of the time. I am only good at replacing just about any parts on a vehicle if required. I also have a 2016 Subaru WRX, I swapped out for aftermarket coilover suspension, exhaust, intercooler, protuned the car. But when it comes to alignment, I take it to my alignment shop and let them take care of it. I also worked on my 98 Tacoma daily, got 450,000 miles now and it is still running great. However, 4runner is really new to me and never had one until now. This is why I'm very interested in learning about what works and what doesn't when it comes to the 4runner. After spending lots of money on modifying my Subaru, I would do thing a little differently knowing what I know now. So far I'm learning quite a bit here in this forum. This time around, I think I'll spend the money for its intended purpose instead of buying the best components and paid lots of money for something I'll not be using it for ie. Rock crawling or overlanding. I do snowboard so it will see snow a few time out of the year and a few time on dirt road out of the year for my mountain biking activities. Nothing too crazy since my other buddies have 4x4 tundra and Ford Raptor.

 

1) Yes, just take it to a reputable alignment shop and ask them to get the caster as close to 4* as they can (while keeping your toe and camber in spec). I believe the max spec for the 4Runners caster is either 3.9* or 4*, so you will still be at (or very close) to spec.....just on the upper end. I recommend getting a lifetime alignment to save money in the long run.

2) Pushing your caster forward will reduce the amount of wander on the highway. It makes your truck track straighter at speed. Steering wheel feels more positive with less play. Definitely an improvement, IMO.

3) No, this does not affect tire wear. With caster, you're just pushing the tire forward in the wheel well slightly. Toe and camber affect tire wear and you can still get those in spec with your caster at 4*.

A couple of quick notes........there are a bunch of people that push their caster forward on these trucks. Some people with aftermarket Upper Control Arms go as high as 5*.

If you lift the front end 2" and above, it might be tough to get your caster set to 4* unless you get aftermarket Upper Control Arms. If you lift 1.6" or less, your stock UCAs will do the job just fine.

 

Wow, I think for me it will most likely be around .85 or 1.6 max. Lift. I'll definitely go for the lifetime alignment, and asked them to move it forwards if it help high speed stability and better sensitivity feel. Thank you Nimby for the advice.