Newbie 2nd gen owner - need advice

Greetings.
Just bought my first 4R. It’s a 92, manual 3.0, 4wd, 173k. Seems to be running well. Previous owner had the heads off and put new gaskets on and new timing, new plugs and wires and looks like new vacuum lines.
Wondering about what engine “noises” to expect? To me, it sounds like a loud tick, that keeps in line with the rpms coming from the driver’s side of the engine. Is this normal?
I live at 9200ft in Colorado. Would anyone suggest a cold-Air intake? Even after 173k? Any other performance mods???
I just replaced the catalytic and muffler due to serious rust and holes. Need to replace the O2 sensor, code 25 keeps popping up.
Other than that I’m open to any advice/suggestions.
Thanks!
Mike

 

If you are hearing a constant ticking than it most likely a lifter. My 1995 did it as well. Nothing wrong, its fine. Just be glad the head gasket was changed. Big fail ratio in the 3.0. If that motor ever goes, and you want to keep the 2nd gen... I suggest doing a 3.4 swap out of a 3rd. Very easy, super reliable and more power.

 

Please take no offense cmbronc76 but the 3VZ-E doesn't have classic cam in the valley lifters because it is an overhead cam engine design with a single cam on the top of each bank of cylinders. I concur with your recommending the 3.4 swap into the 2nd Gen! The 3VZ-E really needed the extra pair of valves to bring up the volumetric efficiency that the 3.4 has.

So in the 3VZ-E there are shim-buckets (might consider them as a lifter) that ride on top of the valve stem and rotate and twirl around in the top of the head castings with shims in the top of the bucket that the cam lobe slides on as the lobe depresses the valve to open it. The reciprocating mass in the valve train is relatively minimal and is composed of the valve, part of the valve-spring, the spring-retainer, the col-lets the bucket and the shim. There are no rockers, push rods or lifters in the 3VZ-E. The underside of the bucket sees the top of the valve stem which is a small surface area that the valve spring will work as the cam pushes the valve open. This is about the only place in the valve train that can really increase the valve lash and if that becomes a lot more than .015" then this might rattle a bit and that might be a tick as well unless a cam lobe is going away?...

Alternatively, if it was overheated, the tick might be a wrist pin or two that is/are starting to gaul inside the cast aluminum piston/s. This causes the piston-skirts to slap in the bore which might sound like a tick at idle and with 173 K the bores are likely a bit worn... Does it go away with higher RPM? If yes than that would be my best guess.

Replace the O2 sensor with a Denso brand only it is the OEM choice. Your on your own if you cheap out and get an NTK or Bosch. As for improvements the three best that I have done and recommend would be a set of headers (DT's if you need to keep it smog legal) and a Summit Racing version of the 57-9006 K&N cold air intake. Both good but even better when you replace the CAT with a glass pack that is approximately 16" in length. The other item would be new injectors with the four hole nozzles. Fresh Denso or Toyota OEM spark plug wires and setting the advance at 12-14° BTDC with the jumper on the test port all add up to a good time at higher RPM. It still won't burn rubber with the 31 x 10.50-R15's but it will spin the inside rear in wet weather and on dirt roads you can throttle in the slide as required!

It looks lifted a bit from what I can tell, nice ride!

 

Use Mobil 1 5w30 from now on to extend the life of your engine and the infamous “ticking” may go away.

 

And not that high mileage crap, just the basic synthetic....

 

Synthetic or conventional?
I’ve read a lot of mixed reviews on this site already.

 

Hey Andrew (atgparker). Thanks for all the info. I think my brain hurt a little reading all that
The tick is in time with the rpms. The higher the rpm, the faster and slightly louder the tick. I hear it inside the cab when driving. But there doesn’t seem to be any lag or real loss of power at higher rpms.
I thought there was a slight lift as well, but I’ve crawled under it and don’t see any mods.

 

No that’s stock suspension. Its a lil higher in the front that’s normal. I like it cause I’m loading 160# plus Bucks in the back during hunting season...

 

A lot of our engines have loud fuel injectors which make a ticking noise. I would just listen to the injectors with a mechanics stethoscope. If you can’t get to the injectors under the plenum just touch the fuel rail with the tip of the stethoscope, if it’s making a loud ticking noise then it’s the injectors. Also check see if you hear valvetrain noise under the valve covers and compare that noise to the injectors. If the injectors are louder than the valvetrain, more than likely you just have loud injectors. If you’re not experiencing lack of power and the noise matches the rpms and I was a gambling man I would just say that you have loud injectors. I wouldn’t worry if that was the case. On the flip side if you hear a loud tick from under the valve covers, then I would start to worry because adjusting the valves in these engines are a PITA. These engines are slow and make only 150 hp and 180 ftlbs of torque. Trying to pump more performance out of it is just a waste of money. There’s nothing you can really do to make significant power gains, the thorley split headers are cool, but they cost an arm and a leg for a modest performance gain. In my opinion trying to make 3.0 faster is just a waste of money. They don’t call it a 3.slow for no reason. You think it’s slow with a 5 speed? Try it with an automatic, it’s a three legged dog. Just keep it stock and just advance the timing a few degrees. That’s really the only thing you can do to get a little bit more performance for cheaper. Also just stick with 10w30 conventional, that’s what it calls for. If you want to be fancy use a high mileage synthetic blend. Using full synthetic is a waste of money on an engine that doesn’t call for it. Just use what it calls for and change the oil every 3750 miles like the maintenance schedule calls for.

 

Thanks Doug and I think you’re right. I was looking up stuff on injectors. I watched a video of the diff between stock and 4 hole, and that was the exact same sound I’m hearing.
I wasn’t necessarily looking for “more speed”, I just live at 9200ft with lots of big hills that I drive up and down everyday. But I agree in keeping it pretty stock.

 

Yes I can attest to the four hole injectors make quite a racket at idle and a ticking is a good representation. As for hills and climbing torque is what you will need to maintain your momentum. At 180 Ft-Lbs they are not great while slugging around a 5,200 lb chassis. That Toyota Previa mini van's super charger would be a nice solution!

 

Don't bother with a cold air intake - the OEM is designed as a cold air - you'd have to mess with finding a good spot to relocate the MAF as well

 

Akzep69 the 2nd gens do not have a mass air flow sensor (MAF). They use an air flow meter incorporating a spring loaded flap or vane in the rectangular port that is attached to a dashpot and a separate temperature probe that sticks out into the flow path to read air temp. I wish they had a MAF as they are more efficient in allowing the air to pass through them.

The cold air intake is not just about keeping the temperature probe that is located in the AFM cool. Albeit the idea off washing this sensor with external cooler air that is from outside the engine compartment is desirable. The OEM air cleaner assembly does that really well by pulling the air from behind the driver's side (NAS) head light. The 57-9006 kit which K & N developed has two other features which are quite worthy of explaining.

The casting that is used on the K & N replaces the OEM air filter plastic housing. This cast part has a very well thought out relationship between the porting to the AFM and the air filters somewhat large radial distance to the surface that the filter element is clamped too. When you install this kit the casting uses four SHCS's to fix it to the AFM and adjacent to these are these four niceley cast in tangent radius bends that are smoothed to the inside of the AFM's rectangular opening. This design feature increase the the efficiency in getting the air from inside the filters air volume and into the AFM's opening. The somewhat contorted albeit quite OEM air filter assembly pales by comparison but don't remove that cleaver little sheet metal bracket from inside the OEM system were the AFM is attached.

This brings one to the second feature of the K&N kit and that is the induction noise the engine has when it is able to let is out. The K&N does this when the throttle plate is cracked half way and beyond to WOT independ of engine RPM. The drone is much better than the ebay kits that have the very nice looking polished aluminum tubes and silicone couplings. But the overall length and the adapter plate for the AFM on these kits are missing the mark in design by a long shot! That is partly why they are less than $50. The single plastic elbow on the K&N kit is relatively short offers a port for the AC speed boosting vacuum line (blue hose in my photograph) and reuses the OEM flexible elbow to the throttle body. This affords one lots of room to service the air filter as it is set back from the corner behind the headlight by 4 to 6 inches. But what is more is that the flow path from the throttle plate to the opening in the casting behind the air filter element is a relatively short distance and makes for a very distinct sound. The sound is glorious and well worth the $200 through Summit Racing's version they sell for less than K & N's but it is the same thing minus a chrome bezel on the filter.

But these efficiencies will probably only equate to a couple of more horsepowers. As for mounting the AFM the supplied casting with brackets makes this a snap!

 

Do you have a video of install? I have the same kit you do, but curious what happens to the y tube I have if the kit came with the single tube. What do I put in the bolt hole on the plastic tube?

 

I would be interested in this K&N air filtration system for the air flow meter, on my 1990 4Runner 5sp Manual. I had motor totally rebuilt (still stock but bored out a little) and new Toyota cams. I'm still struggling with what I think is injector problem, so I will be pulling them out and sending to a place in Havasu City for testing & refurb. I have had my vehicle for 30 years, 2nd owner. Running the Driven 10w-40 conventional Gibbs oil, with much higher zinc/moly than parts store oil. I experienced cam wear after years & years of the Castrol 20w50 in AZ.. Also I'm using the Driven GL4 gear oil conventional in my diff & tranny. My shifting is much smoother now, and any leaks gone......Tony